Classic mag to X-valve help

[38super]

So this past weekend while waiting for my sear to get back from Luke, I decided to try my X-valve in my old Classic L-7 mag. It fit fine, gassed up fine and fired fine, but wouldn't reset properly. It would take two or three seconds to reset after the firing cycle; you could hear it hiss a bit and see the trigger rod suddenly pop back out. Changing ULT shims just resulted in pulling the trigger only to blow air down the barrel. Same result with the RT on/off.

Is this sear related? Does the Classic mag sear have to be swapped out for an RT sear, and if so, how? They are pinned differently aren't they?

[TwilightG]

lvl10 needs to be tuned. sounds like bolt stick
Do you have spare carriers with your X Valve? You will need to use a smaller size. Make sure to use the same inner-carrier-oring

[38super]

lvl10 needs to be tuned. sounds like bolt stick
Do you have spare carriers with your X Valve? You will need to use a smaller size. Make sure to use the same inner-carrier-oring

Interesting; I tuned it for the ULE body with the largest carrier that wouldn't leak. Would a different body change the fit of this o-ring? I do have all the carriers that AGD sends with the valve, so I can certainly mess with it if I have to. I was however hoping for a simple, quick-changeover so that I wouldn't have to re-tune when switching back to the ULE.

I was also wondering if it could be bolt spring related. Perhaps it's time to order some extra bolt springs.

[TwilightG]

Interesting; I tuned it for the ULE body with the largest carrier that wouldn't leak. Would a different body change the fit of this o-ring? I do have all the carriers that AGD sends with the valve, so I can certainly mess with it if I have to. I was however hoping for a simple, quick-changeover so that I wouldn't have to re-tune when switching back to the ULE.

I was also wondering if it could be bolt spring related. Perhaps it's time to order some extra bolt springs.

You should not need to re-tune it between bodies.
It could be the bolt spring instead.. didn't think of that.
Are you using the gold spring? if so, does it extend past the front of the bolt? If not, replace it or use a red spring.

also check the tightness of your field strip screw. That can cause the valve to mis-align easily. hand tight and then 1/4 turn w/ allen key for good measure (at least, that's what I do)
Too tight or too loose will cause inconsistent results

[38super]

You should not need to re-tune it between bodies.
It could be the bolt spring instead.. didn't think of that.
Are you using the gold spring? if so, does it extend past the front of the bolt? If not, replace it or use a red spring.

also check the tightness of your field strip screw. That can cause the valve to mis-align easily. hand tight and then 1/4 turn w/ allen key for good measure (at least, that's what I do)
Too tight or too loose will cause inconsistent results

It's a silver spring. It's the only one they shipped with it and Roman told me this is the only one I should need. It does extend past the end of the bolt though.

Checked both the field strip and disassembly screws for tension and they're fine.

Probably the smart way to go for now is just leave it as a L-7 until the sear comes back in, then order a new complete X-valve for it and fit it to that body exclusively. That is, if Canadian Customs ever releases the sear....

[athomas]

The X-valve should be a drop-in replacement for the classic valve. Use the same bolt spring you were using before. There should be no shims in the power tube. It should work fine with about 4 ULT shims (2 level 10 shims) in the on-off.