Emag not Firing

[audioSLAVE]

I can not get my Emag to fire more than one shot in Mech or Electronic mode
after I initially air it up. I just recently replaced the stock trigger with a Tuna blade and it worked fine up until that point so I am assuming it has something to do with that. I adjusted the magnet in the trigger a little because it was causing the display screen to scramble, other than that I haven't done anything else. When I pull the trigger it clicks and the shot registers on the counter but it will not fire.

Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. It is a Micro Emag with an X valve and Level 10 and 1.37 software. Thanks in advance.

[athomas]

The scrambled screen means the trigger magnet is too close to the HES sensor when you turn on the gun. If the gun worked prior to installation of the trigger and does not work, even in mechanical mode, then the trigger/sear assembly is not set to the proper specs. You may need to adjust the trigger rod and the plunger rod. The plunger rod should be 3.005" from tip to top of clevis. The trigger rod should be long enough to allow mechanical activation but not too long that the trigger can't be adjusted to stay out of its way in electronic mode.

[audioSLAVE]

I messed around with it a little today. I swapped out a trimmed silver spring for a red spring and it was working. Is there any reason why it would suddenly not work with a longer spring? While trying to find the problem, I also noticed that the top of the sear that goes into the body wanted to stay triggered protruding into the valve cavity making difficult to put the valve back in the body. Also never had that issue before either. Any thoughts as to what might cause either of these changes?

[athomas]

Switching to a longer spring increases the force required by the chamber pressure to push the bolt forward. If the required force is higher than the force exerted on the bolt, then the gun doesn't fire. Its the same as if there is a blockage in the breach holding the bolt back. If you want to use a longer, stiffer spring, then you need to increase the chamber pressure. This will increase the velocity as well, which is why you need to select the proper spring for your setup. The proper bolt spring will allow you to shoot at a velocity about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. This setting will allow the best over all consistency without sacrificing any anti-chop capability.

If you active the solenoid without the valve in the body, or even with the valve if it is not aired up, there is no force to reset the solenoid. You will have to do it by hand. It could also mean that your plunger is too short. The solenoid may be pulling the sear farther down than it needs to. That also means that the plunger starting position is too high, reducing the amount of force exerted which can cause inconsistent operation. Check that your plunger is not loose and changing position on its own.

[audioSLAVE]

Thanks for the input athomas.

That also means that the plunger starting position is too high, reducing the amount of force exerted which can cause inconsistent operation.

What falls into the category of inconsistent operation? Chuffing, inconsistent velocity? Would this lack of force from the plunger position be the cause of the silver spring giving too much resistance in it's current state, considering the silver spring offered no issue before I switched out triggers and I might have accidentally altered pluger position in the process?

Check that your plunger is not loose and changing position on its own.

What is the best way to do this and figure this out? Opening the grip frame, or removing from the body and frame all together, and what exactly would I be looking for?

[athomas]

Thanks for the input athomas.
What falls into the category of inconsistent operation? Chuffing, inconsistent velocity? Would this lack of force from the plunger position be the cause of the silver spring giving too much resistance in it's current state, considering the silver spring offered no issue before I switched out triggers and I might have accidentally altered pluger position in the process?

In relation to the plunger length, inconsistent operation depends on the solenoid electrical force acting on the plunger. If the plunger distance is too far, this force may be reduced. If the distance to the plunger causes the force to be at the minimum amount required to pull the plunger in, then any changes in friction, current, heat, etc could cause the solenoid to not act within the desired parameters. It may or may not fire at the correct time or at the correct speed. This would affect the dwell time of the gun and could cause bolt stick issues or cause the gun to not fire at all.

What is the best way to do this and figure this out? Opening the grip frame, or removing from the body and frame all together, and what exactly would I be looking for?

To check the plunger, you just have to check the lock nut where the rod attaches to the top of the plunger. If the nut is tight and the plunger does not rotate, then it is tight. If you want to check the length of the plunger, you need to remove the assembly from the grip frame and then remove the plunger from the solenoid. Measure from the tip of the plunger to the tip of the clevis. The distance should be 3.005".

Normally changing the trigger shouldn't have affected anything. If something in the trigger assembly changed as a result of you moving stuff around, then that is probably your problem. The gun may have been at the edge of operation. The smallest change may have put it over the edge.

[goin5150]

Since my problem is on the same topic, what would cause my gun to work in manual mode and not in electric mode?

I tested the electric mode gun by taking the valve out, and using the pad of my finger to put resistance on the sear and the solenoid was working, but once i bolt the gun back to together it only works in manual mode

The gun has been sitting for 4+ years, and I just recently brought it out to play with it. It has a blade trigger, ule warp left, x-valve, and level 10 bolt.

Thanks in advance.
Steve

[maniacmechanic]

Since my problem is on the same topic, what would cause my gun to work in manual mode and not in electric mode?

I tested the electric mode gun by taking the valve out, and using the pad of my finger to put resistance on the sear and the solenoid was working, but once i bolt the gun back to together it only works in manual mode

The gun has been sitting for 4+ years, and I just recently brought it out to play with it. It has a blade trigger, ule warp left, x-valve, and level 10 bolt.

Thanks in advance.
Steve

Check your battery

[athomas]

Since my problem is on the same topic, what would cause my gun to work in manual mode and not in electric mode?

I tested the electric mode gun by taking the valve out, and using the pad of my finger to put resistance on the sear and the solenoid was working, but once i bolt the gun back to together it only works in manual mode

The gun has been sitting for 4+ years, and I just recently brought it out to play with it. It has a blade trigger, ule warp left, x-valve, and level 10 bolt.

Thanks in advance.
Steve

I agree with above. Check the battery. If left dead for a long period of time, it may have lost its ability to deliver any useful current.

[goin5150]

12.3 v.. placed it on the charger and will check after if is finished charging

[maniacmechanic]

12.3 v.. placed it on the charger and will check after if is finished charging

I've also had batterys that said they had 18.8 volts in them but didn't work under a load

[athomas]

12.3v is below the dead voltage of 0.9v per cell (12.6v total). That's not good, especially if it was stored like that or lower.

When you measure the voltage after a charge, do so after the battery sits for a couple of hours. That will allow the voltage to settle. It will give you the real voltage value of the battery pack and not an artificially inflated chemical charge value that will dissipate as it sits there.

[goin5150]

18.6v fresh off the charger, and 18.1 12+ hours later. Gun works now, thanks.

Steve

forgot to add, tested marker last night after charge... approx 50 rounds worked fine.

[athomas]

It looks like your battery pack is fine. You'll know once you start to use it. You'll get a feel for the number of shots you get off a full charge. A new pack will give you around 20000 shots on a charge. As they get older, the capacity goes down a bit.