I guess when I look at this, I am still a bit lost. I didnt realize the UTB was capable of EP? Pardon my ignorance, but what is used to power the ram?
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Air, run through the solenoid from the LPR.Originally posted by OPBNComment
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Ok, so something like the SMC S070-SDG-32? The microswitch sends the signal to the UTB which sends a signal to the solenoid who's function is to control the flow between the LPR and the ram? In a non-Pneu the board just operates an electronically activated ram?Originally posted by Frizzle FryComment
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Yes exactly! Here's a scheme:Originally posted by OPBN
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drop forward
it is a wgp with out the wgp on/offOriginally posted by AndoComment
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Very nice job, first I've seen an EP setup with a CF frame. I'd love to see that setup on a classic mag, steel body, classic valve...now that would be the ultimate sleeper.Comment
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All the UTBs (including the one you have in your VER frame) can run large cylinder type solenoids (the one in the VER) and EP types.Originally posted by OPBN
In the event you need to use BOTH types at the same time in a marker such as a E-Cocker or a Shoebox shocker, all thats needed is a change in the code on the UTB._______________________
Jai "P8ntbal4me" MenardComment
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Pretty much.Originally posted by OPBN
In an ELCD mag a clapper 'noid hits the sear (pinless) and pushes it back, in a Spydermag a clapper noid hits a sear that hooks and pulls the automag sear (modified) down, and in an Emag a push-pull noid pulls the sear back and down. Those are the strictly electronic ones.
With a mechanical/pneumatic mag, you manually trigger a 3-way (think autococker) which controls the flow of air from an LPR to a pneumatic ram that strikes the sear. This is closer in function to an autococker 3-way, triggering the firing process in a similar way to an ELCD mag (imagine the LPR as a battery, the 3-way as a microswitch, and the ram as a clapper noid).
In this situation he's got a board controlling the fire rate and dwell, a microswitch triggering each shot, a small 3-way solenoid controlling air flow from an LPR, and a ram striking the sear..Comment
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That is amazing ! Great work. Nobody on the field would have any idea it wasn't a regular mag.If you can't join em, shoot em !Comment
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Excellent use of a warp feed (EP batteries).
You might make up the missing pin in your grips (I have at least one set missing a pin). It should help reinforce the grips and frame.
That was an RT frame?
I'm saving that frame installation picture.Comment
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Tanks! I never really liked two fingers triggers, and I love those wood grips! I knew I wanted one the moment I held one! Back in the days where SP was a good barrel company...Originally posted by ghost271
I really don't see how I could make on upOriginally posted by Spider-TW
, it is pretty tight in there. But since there are two pins integrated in the wood grip itself, I don't really think it will move.
It was a CF frame I bought with my first classic mag. But all the CF frame are the same right?Originally posted by Spider-TWComment
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I thought you were missing one of the two pins that come with the grips, like mine.
Yours must be in your other grip panel. I can't tell that my upper one is missing on one of my sets because they fit so well. I should cut a piece of music wire to replace it.
Your frame looks like it has a large rear screw hole, like it was made for an RT banjo bolt. Do you have a thicker bushing that goes in there, or maybe my eye-ball calibration is off?Comment
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Ok I get it now. Yes the other pin is in the other panel.Originally posted by Spider-TWI thought you were missing one of the two pins that come with the grips, like mine. Yours must be in your other grip panel. I can't tell that my upper one is missing on one of my sets because they fit so well. I should cut a piece of music wire to replace it.
Yep, you're right. I bought 3 CF frames and they were all the same: they all uses a bigger bushing. You're eye ball calibration is just fine!Originally posted by Spider-TW
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