X-Valve Anodizing

[East Coast Ano]

Ok I have a few quick questions about anodizing the x-valve on new classic mag project gun I bought recently.

While I am rather handy with markers and good with anodizing I have never tried to disassemble and reassemble a valve. While I know it is possible to be done there are two things I am weary of. First off do I need any sort of special tools or presses to do this correctly? And secondly how tight are the internal tolerances inside of these things would a quick strip and re ano severely mess with the valves functionality?

The second part of this question in not as critical as the first part as I figure that all the internals could simply be masked off during the entire anodizing process. I have even considered as a possibility not completely disassembling the entire valve and just masking off the internals as I have devised some quite superior masking methods over the years.

I would greatly appreciate comments from anyone with knowledge on any of these topics.

An advance Thank You,
Carl

[Tunaman]

Well here is the deal...
You need heat to remove the powertube. That wrecks the oring. You will need one of those.
The zlock pin is soft stainless. It needs to come out. It is only pressed in, and has some knurling to hold it in. Leaving them in to disengrate will compromise the bath I am sure. But you know more about that than I do.
Plug the holes. I heard that rubber plugs work. I can't confirm that either.
The valve tolerances are designed so that raw valves off the lathe get electropolished and then annoed(=correct tolerances when finished.) Stripping does these valves no good at all. Strip it quick if you have to. Leaving it in too long or wrong voltage/bath mixture=valve shot forever. This is what I know. These have to be done right.
Oh...and I believe it is very important how it gets racked. You cant have the electrodes touching any oring surface. I believe they use some type of pin electrodes so it doesnt mess anything up inside. Look inside the one you take apart and see where they had the electrodes touching. I had one guy ruin 6 new ones on me.

[hill160881]

I did not use a lot of heat in the end to remove the power tube, i just put it in the oven at 300 . I was very careful with a set of pliers not to let them slip or mess up the power tube. If you can do masking on parts, then just mask off the stainless pin. Just know if you dont mask it right you will destroy the back half of the valve. This was how Arnolds did mine. If you want the X removed you will have to remove extra material otherwise when you put it in the acids it will come back.

Arnold has done many Mag valves. Maybe call and ask for him, for some expert advise..

[Tunaman]

I did not use a lot of heat in the end to remove the power tube, i just put it in the oven at 300 . I was very careful with a set of pliers not to let them slip or mess up the power tube. If you can do masking on parts, then just mask off the stainless pin. Just know if you dont mask it right you will destroy the back half of the valve. This was how Arnolds did mine. If you want the X removed you will have to remove extra material otherwise when you put it in the acids it will come back.

Arnold has done many Mag valves. Maybe call and ask for him, for some expert advise..

There are no parts in a mag valve that require pliers to remove. Do not use pliers. I'll give you a tip. Check out the 3 way Axle vise made by Park.

[hill160881]

There are no parts in a mag valve that require pliers to remove. Do not use pliers. I'll give you a tip. Check out the 3 way Axle vise made by Park.

I tried a strap wrench and that was a no go. They were the only tools at hand. But i agree with the right tools you should never use pliers.

[East Coast Ano]

Thank you guys for you input.

I am hoping to find time for this project in the next week and will be sure to post up the results of this along with some pictures.

My plan for now is to disassemble as much of the valve as can be done easily and mask off the remainder. the one part that is looking as though I could be slightly problematic is the small hole located on the top of the back half, I am planning to go with a glued in silicone plug. Hopefully I will be able to get at the inside of this hole so that the plug can be placed from the inside out.
Tuna as I am not sure of the SS grade on that ring I plan to remove it. if it is made from a 316SS there is a very high chance that it would be unharmed during the anodizing due to the fast that I anodize with a less harsh method on paintball products of >10% Acid by volume.

If I can find the spare time one of these day I am going to Wright up a full guide on stripping parts along with some common misconceptions about anodizing. I have observed post over here as well as on MCB and customcockers detailing some false as well as incorrect information around the processes.

Carl