Level 10 vs level 7 with eyes

[fierymartel]

Just bought an X-valve. Considering current condition of my back, I'm thinking about selling it. However, I still have a little bit for a project. Question is, does the level 10 make that big a difference if you add eyes? If I go with a classic valve on my hyper frame, I can stretch the project out time wise and money wise. Rail milling for eyes, new board, thinking about using a cap on the valve and adding inline reg to make it shorter. Am I better off keeping the xvalve? I don't have the level 10 spacers, only what came with the used valve. Never was really good at tuning level10 in the past. Is there a valve cap made by someone on AO? Looking for some insight to help me make this decision.

[athomas]

If you are not looking for weight savings on the valve, the classic works fine for electronic projects. There are some benefits to using the level 10, even with eyes. In the event of paint that is too small, the level 7 can clip the next ball in the stack causing a fracture that could cause a ball break in the barrel on the next shot. The level 10 will softly go past the ball in the stack without harming it. The trade-off is the loss of upper end cycles per second due to the slower cycle time of the level 10 vs the level 7 bolt. For most applications, the level 7 works well with eyes though. You won't get chops.

[Spider-TW]

I would search for hyperframe posts by BigEvil, here and on BE online. The main question to me is how the hyperframe performs between the classic valve and an RT type valve. Iirc, there's a little tuning dependent on the valve, as well as some tricks about keeping the board itself healthy (like grip panels rubbing the electronics). I think he had that conversation with Magoo over on MCB a few months ago.

It doesn't sound like you're looking for anything too far out. I think you're just weighing what is easy to do against what you want to do. X-valve (lvl 10) and hyperframe; you're done. A level 7 classic valve with eyes will probably cost about the same and weigh about the same (without the classic regulator), but it would definitely be balanced and shaped differently.

[fierymartel]

Right, better balanced without the classic regulator. But, there's getting the milling done for the eyes. of course, not really in a hurry. won't be playing anytime soon. Does anyone know where I can get a back cap for the the classic valve?

[OPBN]

Right, better balanced without the classic regulator. But, there's getting the milling done for the eyes. of course, not really in a hurry. won't be playing anytime soon. Does anyone know where I can get a back cap for the the classic valve?

Guy over on MCB called Deus Machina had some of the valve caps in stock, it's where I got mine. He took forever to respond to me though. Also, I had contacted XM15 about making one once and he said he could do it as well.

[fierymartel]

were they stainless or aluminum, just curious.

[OPBN]

Aluminum. I have not heard of anyone making them in stainless. Heck, if you were going for stainless, wonder if just having someone cut plate and welding it up would be an option? Once you take out the internals, there is absolutely nothing in the valve anymore. No o-rings or anything to worrry about. Just a thought. Possibly a stupid thought, but a thought.

[Dover]

so if you replace the back half of the valve with a cap, is there anything stopping me from taking out the guts and running it with just the velocity adjustment cap or dial-o-welt ?

[athomas]

You would need to keep the piston assembly or the air would just flow out through the hole in the adjuster.

[hill160881]

I have eyes and still use a L 10 due to smaller paint causing clipping and barrel brakes.

[Dover]

Yeah, thats why i liked the JAM bolt so much and wondered why they went out of business

even if you get paint on the eyes the bolt wont chop