Problem with XVavle

[Enhander]

Ah ok. So I should start .33 and then work my way up till the bolt stick stops?

[Justus]

Start at level 4 (.33 diameter), which will have no bolt stick but might leak, and work your way back until the leak stops. Don't use shims. If you work your way back into a bolt stick situation, go back up and add some oil. Once you've found the "right" carrier for that particular o-ring, fire your gun a few hundred times to break it in.

[Tunaman]

You guys are making this harder than it really is:
Take an oring and the 1.5 carrier.
Install the oring in the carrier and test fit it on the end of the bolt stem. It only needs to be SNUG...not tight. If too loose, go to 1.0 using the same oring....etc.

[Justus]

You guys are making this harder than it really is:

Well, yeah, that's pretty much what I did when I tuned mine, based upon watching this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

I was just being thorough in the interest of obtaining an understanding of how everything in the bolt works together. My Level 10 didn't even come with all those carriers - I think I have #'s 0 through 2.

[Enhander]

Ok cool. Ill try this out when I get home.

[Enhander]

Well, unfortunately none of that worked. Any other ideas? Or is this thing gonna need tech'd?

[athomas]

When you fire and hold the trigger, it should stop leaking after a couple of seconds. If it does this, then we know for sure the problem is in the powertube of the valve. If it continues to leak, then the problem is in the on-off area.

Assuming the problem is in the powertube area, use the largest carrier that does not leak. Always remove all the shims from the powertube before doing any level 10 tuning to prevent shim induced leaks. As Tuna mentioned, start at the 1.5 carrier. If it sticks, go to the 2.0 carrier. If it leaks with the 1.5 carrier, use the 1.0 carrier. Always use the same white powertube carrier oring when changing carrier sizes. Its actually the oring that you are adjusting. If you can't find an carrier size that works, change orings and try again.

[Enhander]

Its not longer leaking. The problem is the bolt stick. Im using the 1.5 carrier. If I remove it and replace it with one smaller or bigger..the leak comes back, so Im leaving it in there.

I have no shims installed in the lvl 10 currently.

[Justus]

New powertube o-ring? If so, run a couple tanks of air through and add a drop of oil every couple hundred shots. No paint necessary. Remove your barrel so you don't oil the inside of it, and just plug the end of the body with a paper towel. If you still have bolt stick after that, then I'd switch powertube o-rings and start over with a fresh one like suggested earlier.

[Enhander]

Ok...I dont know what happened...but its working now. It wasnt working last night and it is now..I didnt change anything lol. Im happy though. Just ran a hopper through it...shot great!

Should I replace the 2 shims I removed from the lvl10?

[Justus]

No. First, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. lol

Second, I seemed to solve my "leaking down the barrel" problem a couple months ago by removing the shims altogether. They aren't necessary.

[Enhander]

They'll stay out then. I put my finger down breach and fired and the lvl 10 stopped really hard..it actually kinda hurt..which it never has before..Perhaps it needs broken in?

[Ando]

Replace your spring. If it's painful on the finger then it's going to chop...chop paint all day long.

Just ask yourself this when working on your lvl 10. Would I stick my tongue in there?

[Justus]

In addition to what Ando said, I've noticed mine hits harder if I stick my finger in on the barrel side of the breech, but if I stick my finger right in the middle or on the bolt side, it's soft as it should be. I think that's normal if that's the case with yours. (If that's not normal, someone tell me!)

[Enhander]

I have the gold spring on it now. Should I lower it to the silver?