AutoMag NOOB

[Coralis]

Also another problem that will rear its head is that mags will work on CO2 but work much better on compressed air . The CO2 tends to swell and harden the Orings causing problems especially if you get liquid CO2 into the valve.

[biggy238]

Also another problem that will rear its head is that mags will work on CO2 but work much better on compressed air . The CO2 tends to swell and harden the Orings causing problems especially if you get liquid CO2 into the valve.

I'm running a remote with the bottle on the floor and the gun on a table top to try and limit CO2 incursion. I'm eventually going to throw on my stabilizer but don't have an ASA adapter up front yet.

Athomas: Thank you. I somehow missed your post last night. I don't even think it was on the thread last night.
As for sear return, i'm thinking about going to an ink pin spring on the spyder sear to make it return both sears. smoothing things out shouldn't be a problem. I'm relying on my training with pressure compsenated hydraulics for the ULT but I wasn't sure which surfaces were encountering pressure during the cycle.
I'm out of gas until monday. I'm going to dig around and get an hpa tank and cover. I've seen a few here for sale lately.

[biggy238]

What's the concensus of filing the on off pin in order to get it to a usable length where I can fine tune it with shims? I'm guessing if I had it working with the stock trigger, it won't need much.

[athomas]

People file the bottom of the on-off pins all the time. They work fine.

If your on-off assembly is the ULT, then adding shims should work for you. The ULT will take about 6 shims before the assembly won't fit in the body properly. Shims push the upper assembly higher which is the same as making the pin shorter. That is the whole idea of the shims for the ULT, to make an adjustable pin. You can also add shims to a standard retro or classic on-off to achieve the same effect, except that they won't accept as many shims.

[biggy238]

People file the bottom of the on-off pins all the time. They work fine.

If your on-off assembly is the ULT, then adding shims should work for you. The ULT will take about 6 shims before the assembly won't fit in the body properly. Shims push the upper assembly higher which is the same as making the pin shorter. That is the whole idea of the shims for the ULT, to make an adjustable pin. You can also add shims to a standard retro or classic on-off to achieve the same effect, except that they won't accept as many shims.

Yes sir, I was on my second pass through the ULT thread when I asked that. It just seems that if the issue is that the classic can't accept more shims dimensionally, then modding the pin would bring it back to a tunable length. I have every shim with the kit on mine, and maybe even screwed the two halves apart until it just had taken thread and then installed it. Obviously that isn;t a repeatable installation proceedure, so i"m going to need something else in the future.

Looking more and more like HPA is the solution.

[athomas]

I have every shim with the kit on mine, and maybe even screwed the two halves apart until it just had taken thread and then installed it. Obviously that isn;t a repeatable installation proceedure, so i"m going to need something else in the future.

If you are able to make the assembly longer (by using the threads on the ULT) than the 6 ULT shims from the kit and still get the assembly into the body, then adding more shims will work for you. A level 10 shim is the same as 2 ULT shims. Use them to increase your shim count.

Filing the bottom of the pin assembly will reduce the number of shims you need.

[biggy238]

how does one go about acquiring lvlx shims?

I was doing a read on the "8 hole mod" or valve mod. Will this achieve a noticable difference when shooting CO2 or is it a waste of time? The reference mentioned the internal ports not matching loacation on the earlier production valves.

[athomas]

The level 10 shims come with the level 10 bolt system. You can buy extras from AGD or from a AGD dealer like Tunaman here on AO. He is probably the least expensive option.

Any reduction in air restrictions help with CO2.

You can check your valve to determine if it needs a hole mod. Take the valve apart and mark the outside where the holes are drilled. Screw the two halves back together and see if they line up. If the holes line up, then you don't need a mod. If the holes do not line up, mark the back section so that the mark lines up with the mark on the front section. Unscrew the halves and drill a hole in the back section so it lines up with the mark you made. The hole needs to be drilled on an angle so that it exits in front of the piston assembly.

[biggy238]

The level 10 shims come with the level 10 bolt system. You can buy extras from AGD or from a AGD dealer like Tunaman here on AO. He is probably the least expensive option.

Any reduction in air restrictions help with CO2.

You can check your valve to determine if it needs a hole mod. Take the valve apart and mark the outside where the holes are drilled. Screw the two halves back together and see if they line up. If the holes line up, then you don't need a mod. If the holes do not line up, mark the back section so that the mark lines up with the mark on the front section. Unscrew the halves and drill a hole in the back section so it lines up with the mark you made. The hole needs to be drilled on an angle so that it exits in front of the piston assembly.

Thank you.

[Ando]

The level 10 shims come with the level 10 bolt system. You can buy extras from AGD or from a AGD dealer like Tunaman here on AO. He is probably the least expensive option.

Any reduction in air restrictions help with CO2.

You can check your valve to determine if it needs a hole mod. Take the valve apart and mark the outside where the holes are drilled. Screw the two halves back together and see if they line up. If the holes line up, then you don't need a mod. If the holes do not line up, mark the back section so that the mark lines up with the mark on the front section. Unscrew the halves and drill a hole in the back section so it lines up with the mark you made. The hole needs to be drilled on an angle so that it exits in front of the piston assembly.

Make sure you don't go too far when performing this mod. If you drill into the lip where the oring for the piston sits. You'll Tango Uniform your valve.

Were talking less then .015 too deep so be on the ball...