Emag and classic problems

[bpreister]

Hey guys I have two problems:

The first is with my Emag it seems to shoot fine in semi but when I put it into hyper mode it chops every 7th or 8th shot. The gun shot fine last fall I oiled it up before I played a week ago and I'm not sure if my bolt chopped off my detent (brand new ULE body and detent only used in 1 outing) but either way it was broke and I replaced it. Gun still does the same thing chops every 7th or 8th shot in hyper mode.

The second is with my Emag vlalve in my classic. It has a ULT and shoots fine but I can hear a faint hiss I believe its down the barrel. I'm assuming its the PT oring but any input would be appreciated.

[athomas]

Without a level 10, you will get chops when the balls don't get into the breach before the bolt cycles or if the hopper pushes the balls past the detent. the balls can get pushed past if they are on the small side. The balls have been getting smaller lately.

The leak out the front is probably a spacer that is too long.

[bpreister]

They both have level 10's and the Emag was tuned by Tuna last fall and I've only played with it once since then.

The classic with the Emag valve in it has been fine I just noticed the hiss last time out.

I take good care of my guns. I take them apart and clean them completely each time I play. So I thought maybe I had a bad Oring or something.

[athomas]

Take out any shims that are in the powertube of the classic. If it still leaks, then try going to the next smaller carrier size.

Have you confirmed whether the breaks are actually chops or are they breach or barrel breaks? For the emag, the hopper pushing the balls past the detent is still an issue. For single shots, the hopper doesn't have time to get the motor up to speed. In strings of shots, the momentum of the balls pushed by the full speed motor is hard to stop. The detents have to be effective. This is difficult if the balls are much smaller than the breach and barely make contact with the detents.

[bpreister]

Take out any shims that are in the powertube of the classic. If it still leaks, then try going to the next smaller carrier size.

Have you confirmed whether the breaks are actually chops or are they breach or barrel breaks? For the emag, the hopper pushing the balls past the detent is still an issue. For single shots, the hopper doesn't have time to get the motor up to speed. In strings of shots, the momentum of the balls pushed by the full speed motor is hard to stop. The detents have to be effective. This is difficult if the balls are much smaller than the breach and barely make contact with the detents.

I've used this valve for over a year I didnt think that once the level 10 was tuned you would have to change the shims?

I have had both barrel and breach breaks (breach break has paint both in the breach along with part of the shell and also paint on the bolt?) but most breaks are barrel breaks I believe. As for the detent, how far can you screw it in before it causes a whole new set of problems?

[athomas]

As the sear wears, the bolt sits farther forward. If shims are used to push the carrier farther back, the combination causes the vent hole in the bolt stem to become exposed. Don't use any shims in the powertube for best results.

Barrel breaks and some breach breaks are a result of using a bore that is too tight for the paint or detents letting the paint roll forward. A chop is more evident, because it leaves a lot of the ball in the feed tube. Of course, the next ball in the stack pushes it into the breach, but there will still be goo and shell fragments up the feed tube.

You can check the detents by visual inspection. Only the plastic movable part should be protruding into the breach area. If the outer metal part is starting to show, then the detent is in too far.

[bpreister]

As the sear wears, the bolt sits farther forward. If shims are used to push the carrier farther back, the combination causes the vent hole in the bolt stem to become exposed. Don't use any shims in the powertube for best results.

Barrel breaks and some breach breaks are a result of using a bore that is too tight for the paint or detents letting the paint roll forward. A chop is more evident, because it leaves a lot of the ball in the feed tube. Of course, the next ball in the stack pushes it into the breach, but there will still be goo and shell fragments up the feed tube.

You can check the detents by visual inspection. Only the plastic movable part should be protruding into the breach area. If the outer metal part is starting to show, then the detent is in too far.

Thx for the help I'll do some more testing this weekend to see if I can isolate the problem better.