Pneumag tuning/setup question...

[Loneassassin]

I've had my Pneumag for over a year now (did all the mods myself with a Pneumag kit from Mag 79.)

Using an X-valve and ULT w/ 4 shims.

Anyway, I'm wondering what kind of gap you all are using between the MSV-2 activation-pin and the trigger. I made my pin out of a thick mountain-bike spoke. Anyway, on my setup, there is about a 1/16" gap between the trigger all the way forward and where the pin comes to rest. To explain another way - when I pull the trigger, I must pull it 1/16" before it engages the pin, then the MSV-2 lever is actuated. Should there be any gap there at all?

The reason I ask is that I'm after a "chuff-proof" setup. When just messing around and concentrating on shooting, I can walk the trigger no problem without chuffing. But in game situations, sometimes I chuff due to not really completing each pull. This almost always results in a barrel break. I thought that maybe if the pin were a little longer, it would push the trigger all the way forward which might help.

BTW, I have a trigger stop for both forward and rearward motion, and use a spring to return the MSV lever. I was using a magnet mod but could not get enough "snappyness" out of it for my taste. I'm also in the process of designing a way to adjust the tension of this spring to get it just right. It's still not quite snappy enough, but I'm thinking if I tap a set screw through the back of the frame and use a small nut, the spring will fit on that and I can adjust the trigger feel that way.

[Pneumagger]

It should definitely be close if not slightly touching.
How much MSV-2 Lever arm do you have?

I always found shorter MSV-2 arms with a little bit more positive pressure on the LPR helped in 2 ways.
1) Greater trigger on a shorter lever give you bit more snappiness and positive return pressure.
2) shorter trigger pull (due to the shorter lever) made full trigger pulls easier.

But you'll ALWAYS have to completely pull and completely release the trigger when shooting. It's just something you have to practice.
Alot of times, I did away with the ULT altogether and used an RT on-off with a QEV... I think that may have helped some as well.

[Loneassassin]

^^Thanks for the reply. I'll make a new longer pin to get rid of that gap. For some reason, I've always had better luck with longer trigger pulls - helps me get into a rhythm. I figure as long as I stop the trigger very soon after the MSV has engaged, that will help "un"activate it sooner, and with the spring pushing the lever forward further, that should help reduce human error, lol. At least that makes sense in my head...

As for my MSV-2 lever, I didn't really cut any of it off - I just filed it down a bit so it would clear the ram. I wanted as much leverage as possible. (Which has proven to be unneccessary since I've had to increase my trigger pull weight with a magnet mod or spring). If I can't get it the way I want it, then maybe I'll look into shortening the lever and moving the MSV up. RT on/off is another option, but the one time I tried one it just "locked up" on me, then I got my ULT working, and sold the RT, lol.

[Pneumagger]

You don't want to set the trigger stop as soon as the MSV-2 can trip the sear.
The MSV is a valve... it relies on adequete flow to get the piston moving quickly.
The displacement of the valve and lpr pressure are proportional to it's flow.

If you set the trigger stop (valve travel) pulling the trigger slowly & deliberately at home... then when you pull the trigger faster or sloppier in the field you could be starving the MPA-3 of needed air because, mechanically, your giving the valve less time to do its thing given the parameters (pressure & displacement) that you set earlier.

If needed, take an asprin & a nap before collecting yourself and rereading the previous sentence...

Pressure and trigger settings that work at 8bps might not work at 18bps! Basically, set the trigger for a bit of overtravel and turn the LPR pressure up a little more than the minimum needed for consistent firing. When tuning it, practive ripping as FAST as you can with paint... that should prove to be more reliable. Remember, you'll still have to preactice cleanly walking the trigger with a complete pull and a complete release because, along with significant actuation dwell, the valve must be released completely enough to allow full exhaust of the piston - there's no computer chip to distinguish discrete trigger pulls when your mashing on the trigger.

[Loneassassin]

If you set the trigger stop (valve travel) pulling the trigger slowly & deliberately at home... then when you pull the trigger faster or sloppier in the field you could be starving the MPA-3 of needed air because, mechanically, your giving the valve less time to do its thing given the parameters (pressure & displacement) that you set earlier.

If needed, take an asprin & a nap before collecting yourself and rereading the previous sentence...

:

Trust me, nothing you wrote was confusing. (I teach little kids how to read and write )

Anyway, I appreciate the detailed explanation. I'll definitely try adding a little post-activation travel - if anything, the trigger will compress my spring even more and maybe snap back faster.

Ultimately, I'll also get a better Lpr - the Tickler I'm using just barely works at all. In fact, it won't work at all with my new Crossfire reg, due to it having a slightly higher output pressure than my Myth. Which is unfortunate because I know the Crossfire has better recharge and would also help my problem - but the Tickler just "locks up" with that much input.