If not one thing ITS another. LOST

[93klauss]

So I keep changing carriers till I get to the 0 size, leak stops, fire it about 6-7 times starts leaking again . thought I saw the light. Bad oring? Leaking down the tube. There isnt any smaller carriers is there??


Wondering about the body, it has the circular mounting system, for the mounting screw. Also a slanted front profile thinking emag body? Is it possible to mount on am/mm rail?

Here's where it get interesting, When i try to switch the bodies out and air up the gun, No leak at all with the (emag body). But when I pull the trigger nothing happens not even a leak . The trigger acts like its going to fire, and has pressure behind it but when I reach the end of the pull nothing. But when I gas down the gun and pull the trigger it hits the on off pin to allow the valve to leave the body.

Guessing I'm getting enough travel on the on off pin? Due to the different body?

So the question is, if it was the level ten why would it leak with one body (PF/AM) and not the other (thinking emag body)?


I HATE HAVING THIS EXPENSIVE PAPER WEIGHT!!

[OPBN]

Is the body Stainless Steel or Aluminum? If it is a stainless steel body and has the slanted front, it is an E-mag body. Sometimes the pims on these need to filed down a little to let the body sit properly onto an AM/MM rail. Take the body and place it on the rail. See if there is any rocking back and forth piveting on the pim. The pim is the little round or rectangular peice welded onto the bottom of the body where the frame screw attaches. If you are getting any rocking, you will need to file this down.

If your body is an aluminum ULE body, it should fit with no issues. In this case, I would fiddle with the field strip screw. Sometimes you have to sweet spot these in order to get them to work.

[skipdogg]

Send in to AGD???

[BigEvil]

There is alot going on there, I will try to help;

LVL10 leak -

Have you tried all of the carriers? Sometimes if the carrier is too small, it will leak. Start with the .5 carrier, a fresh oring, and 2 shims and go from there.

This is without know anything more specific about the marker you are putting this in. Are you using any aftermarket parts? Has any of this been re-annoed? Are you using the proper frame screws?


Switching bodies -

There are slight differences when you start combining different components. While technically, "the same", they are not really. This is why there are different on/off pin sizes. The set up that is not firing sounds like you have a pin that is too long.

[93klauss]

Is the body Stainless Steel or Aluminum? If it is a stainless steel body and has the slanted front, it is an E-mag body. Sometimes the pims on these need to filed down a little to let the body sit properly onto an AM/MM rail. Take the body and place it on the rail. See if there is any rocking back and forth piveting on the pim. The pim is the little round or rectangular peice welded onto the bottom of the body where the frame screw attaches. If you are getting any rocking, you will need to file this down.

If your body is an aluminum ULE body, it should fit with no issues. In this case, I would fiddle with the field strip screw. Sometimes you have to sweet spot these in order to get them to work.

Well the body is Emag. I took a little off the rail to stop piveting. So any ideas why the x valve is still leaking on a 0 carrier?

THX FOR THE HELP

[93klauss]

There is alot going on there, I will try to help;

LVL10 leak -

Have you tried all of the carriers? Sometimes if the carrier is too small, it will leak. Start with the .5 carrier, a fresh oring, and 2 shims and go from there.

This is without know anything more specific about the marker you are putting this in. Are you using any aftermarket parts? Has any of this been re-annoed? Are you using the proper frame screws?


Switching bodies -

There are slight differences when you start combining different components. While technically, "the same", they are not really. This is why there are different on/off pin sizes. The set up that is not firing sounds like you have a pin that is too long.

Tried #2 all the way to zero. At 0 aired up fired than leaked. All parts are stock, testing with am body, .728 on off pin, standard on off. am/mm rail. orginal frame screw..

So if the pin is too long it will not fire. It did fire, than leaked. I have reaad that you dont need shims in the level ten. IS THAT WRONG?

THX FOR INFO

[hill160881]

You have the wrong size oring. I have a dozzen of them and they look the same and are the right Standard size but the cross section is slightly smaller so it wont seal up. Get some new ones.

[kcombs9]

dunno about the body with no leak but wont fire.

the valve fires when you have it on the body that leaks? if so its gotta be the on/off that is affecting it with the other body.

do you have new Carrier o rings? might have to break a new o ring in and re-tune the lvl x if the 0 carrier is not keeping it from leaking, I've had this happen, I normally have the .5 or 1.0 carrier and eventually work my way down to the 0 over time.

[kcombs9]

Tried #2 all the way to zero. At 0 aired up fired than leaked. All parts are stock, testing with am body, .728 on off pin, standard on off. am/mm rail. orginal frame screw..

So if the pin is too long it will not fire. It did fire, than leaked. I have reaad that you dont need shims in the level ten. IS THAT WRONG?

THX FOR INFO

you use shims if when you have the correct carrier and the bolt dosnt reset after it prevents a chop or cuffs.

1. get the carrier tuned
2. put in the spring you want for how fragile you want your lvl x
3. crono marker, harder springs will require more pressure so you need to turn up the velocity screw
4. put squeegee down feed neck and shoot the marker, it should cuff and reset if the bolt is not resetting add 1 shim at a time.

this is what I do, at most 2 shims is all iv ever used, most times none.

[VailSkibum]

My .02

But when I pull the trigger nothing happens not even a leak . The trigger acts like its going to fire, and has pressure behind it but when I reach the end of the pull nothing. But when I gas down the gun and pull the trigger it hits the on off pin to allow the valve to leave the body.

This was kinda mentioned before, but try turning up your velocity a bit more. This may help seat any o-rings that don't want to seal. (oh yeah,.. Got Oil?)
I've torn down many a 'Mag trying to figure why it wont shoot -- just to find out I didn't have the velocity turned up high enough to cycle the marker.
Also mentioned: Play with your gripframe (one word?) screw. Someone said "sweet spot it". I've found that having it too tight caused most of the problems there.

Hope this helps
VSb

[Ando]

ROFL...Send it too Tuna after all the experts are done scrambling your brain.

[93klauss]

Famous last Words

Well I'm going with Marvin the Martin,

hmmmmmmm BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD!!!

Going to start from scratch!! OH YEA WHY AREN'T THESE O-RINGS COLOR CODED (to easy?)

I will try all suggestions, and let the winner know!!

And if that fails...I hate to say I was beaten buy my own gun, but oFF to THE GREAT TUNA, it goes!!

BAck to the sling Shot!!

[93klauss]

And the winner is

Well Hill have to hand it to ya, It came down to the Oring. simple. So now its cycling just fine, with the am body. And the one I took out looked just like the one I put in. Sensitive little bastard!!

Thanks guys for all the replies.

As for the Emag body I think that I have to take some off the mounting part of the body..


So it works!!!! Now just to make it look better and work!!! but Its raining all weekend

It sad when you wake up thinking whats wrong with my gun!

[hill160881]

Glad I could help.

[VailSkibum]

So it works!!!! Now just to make it look better and work!!! but Its raining all weekend

So?.....
'Mags fire underwater.

Glad your up and running.
VSb