Full Auto Xvalve= BAD

[shades]

I have a stock RT setup with an Xvalve, LVL10 and intelifrrame bought at the AGD booth back 2004 worked beautiful. My son moved the valve to his Emag for tourney play.
It sat for a couple years. I moved it back to the RT setup and now it is full auto when I pull the trigger. I changed ALL the O rings and bumper. Still full auto only when the trigger is pulled. It is not Bouncing, it simplely fires full auto with the trigger pulled all the way back. The tank is not adujstable 800 Psi fixed. I have tried all my on/off pins. I tried switching on off valves and regulators. No change. I have four RT type valves I have never had any act like this. BTW it also does the same thing back in the Emag. So it is not the sear.
If you have any clue to this malfunction please reply. Hate to trash a newish X valve.

[kcombs9]

hows the bolt look?

[shades]

Switched bolts ( all 6 of my mags have lvl10) and changed springs up to the lvl 7 spring and I think I even used lvl 7 setup with no change in the full autoness.

[TwilightG]

sounds strangely familiar...

maybe some clues in this thread on BEO?

http://bigevilonline.com/showthread.php?t=6363

[shades]

Ill have to get some HPA and try the reg pin thing thanks for the research. Ill post if that works.

[Pneumagger]

Check the On/off oring tops and the reg pin oings.
Either could be a source of leakage past the on/off.

[Ando]

Oil it first then look at what Pneumagger said.

[shades]

Okay first of all thank you all for all the help. I have gone for at least 5 years since I been here and not played a tourney since the last days of the IAO. This IS the most helpful web site On the NET let alone PB. I have gotten rusty on my maintainance skills concerning my Mags (the best constructed marker in the world) That being said...
I am embarassed to say that I forgot an O ring and had the wrong one in the same place on another marker of mine on wonder that guns reg was blasting air out the back. I thought I was going crazy when I took my Emag valve apart for comparison and my spring pack fell a part. Little spring washers flying every where. Then after finding all the parts dropping a dental pick on the tiny c-clamp (that holds it all together) which caused it to fly some where on my highly orginized desk. Thankfully my wife found it.
I caught the missing o ring on the exploded view of the X-valve in this thread. (Which I did not have.) After I place the Oring, no more full auto but now it would not fire at all. The RT was out but would not fire. It ended up that the on /off pin was 0.5mm too long! How it fired before I dont know.
You can fix about anything with a Dremmel ,a good wrench and a hammer and in this case calipers and good information.
Thanks again.

[athomas]

If it fired before, then it should work with the same parts now. Wear changes things, but the pin length should not affect that. Measure the pin. It should be 0.750" unless it is the emag pin which is 0.712" for the new generation and 0.725" for the old generation. If you do need a shorter pin, put a couple of shims in between the on-off halves. It will be the same as shortening the pin.

[theshades]

the only caliper i had available was a meteric one. I filed the extra pin that i had to the length of my Emag pin +0.1mm. Because it was working fine with the Emag pin but i want to keep it alittle longer just in case ans for wear purposes.

[robander3]

lvl 10 oring

IDK if you're still having the issue, but when ever my x valve does that (goes full auto without an RT effect feeling) it is usually because of the lvl 10 oring going bad... Just change it out and it should be good again...

by lvl 10 oring I mean the oring in the power tube behind the spacer, not the black oring on the spacer or the white plastic stopper on the bottom of the tube

Hope it helps,
-Rob