who wants to help my X-valve?

[Boltaction]

well finally got to shoot it today. New problem would be an extremely slow recharge rate. I can take a shot and then hear the valve recharging with air. after a couple shots I was pushing the trigger forward with my index figure and then hearing the recharge. Definitley not instantanious like it should be. after a while the trigger was just limp but then would finally reset maybe 10 seconds later. It was shooting really consistant though, had 4 in a row @ 280FPS.

I did'nt bring my LVLX parts kit with me I did'nt try messing with it but i topped off my air tank before i left so i've got some to tinker with.

-SW

[athomas]

That's definately bolt stick. If you go to the next larger carrier size, it will probably work for you.

[Boltaction]

well i messed with it some tonight and its all gone wrong. went up one carrier size (switched w/ the o-ring from the previous) and it leaked out the barrel. When I degassed the marker and removed the valve, i heard a bit of air relase upon removal of the valve, then i noticed the on-off was pushed out a bit (not just the pin, the whole on-off). I pushed it back in and switched back to the smallest carrier (again, swapped the carrier o-ring back as well) put it all back together and now it leaks out the barrel even with the smallest carrier. When I degassed and disassembled the marker The on/off had done the same as before and pushed it self down. This time i removed the on/off and I noticed that the pin and upper o-rings stayed while the bottom part came out normal. Not sure what is causing this but it seems like it is causing my barrel leak issue. The powertube tip o-ring is fine, looks new.



I seem to have eternally bad luck with this mag. Any bright ideas?

-SW

[Boltaction]

well, i suppose the on/off wont cause it to leak down the barrel but is it normal to have the pin stay stuck in there like that?

I guess my carrier o-rings must be shot? I bought this kit in 02' so i guess that would be the most logical problem.

-SW

[athomas]

Its normal for the pin to stay in. Mine does that all the time.

If you use a carrier that is too excessively tight, it gets pushed to the back of the powertube when you insert the bolt. That keeps the vent hole exposed which is why it leaks with a carrier that is much too small.

The powertube tip oring has no affect on the operation, so don't worry about it. Its only there for friction to hold the tip from unscrewing during operation.

Make sure the air leak isn't a result of a scratch in the powertube causing the outside black oring to leak.

Since you are having issues with the carrier orings, change them and retune. A bad batch of orings, although rare, can cause problems in tuning.

[Boltaction]

Yeah I ordered some new carrier o-rings and the 4-pack of the little white ones inside the carrier. I switched out the backing washer to see if that solved anything and now with the 1.5 sized carrier w/ no shims Im getting just a slight barrel leak and can shoot OK but im getting shootdown when i try shooting fast and the recharge rate is still pretty slow. Also had to crank the velocity to the max to get the trigger to charge up.

I think im pretty close on this, just need some more air now.

Thanks Athomas!

-SW

[hill160881]

I think you need to check all the measurements for the marker. The sear rod length, the on off pin length... shootdown can be either of those, as well as a temperamental L10. If the rod is to long it will prevent the bolt from resetting correctly and if it is to short then it fails to shut off the shot chamber and can cause the bolt to not fully reset. Similar with the on off pin. Pin should be .750" (.725" with quad oring) and the rod length is 1.9" to 2".

[Boltaction]

Well the sear is brand new from AGD. maybe it requires some break in or adjustment. When i grab some air ill p[ost a video of exactly whats going on.

thanks!

-SW

[athomas]

You are using a benchmark trigger frame which will cause the sear trigger rod not to be the correct length. It may be fine, but check it anyway to be sure. Put the safety on and hold the trigger against it with the gun fully charged and ready to fire. The trigger rod should not be touching the back of the trigger when you do this. There should be a slight gap, about a credit card thickness. That will give you the proper length to guarantee that the on-off will open when the trigger is released and will release the sear when the trigger is pulled.

[Boltaction]

link to video:

link

I would use youtube but they made it impossible to get into my account. Man they really messed that site up.

Sorry for the super shakey/cruddy video but it shosw where im at. The valve is just not recharging the way it should. You can see that when i push the trigger forward with my finger it recharges. And sometimes it does it on its own but much slower than it should.


-SW

[Boltaction]

AH HA!

Athomas, you were onto somthing with the benchmark causing the rod to be a tad off. I threw on a stock AGD single frame and she is humming now! Unbelievable, Im so happy right now. I could'nt try your test because my double trigger is missing the safety but Im in the market for an intelliframe any way so that should get me where I need to be.

I was to lazy to swap over my drop and ASA onto the AGD frame so here is how it was setup, lol:



Thanks everyone for helping, now I just fine tune everything and shoot people. yay.

-SW

[Boltaction]

Thank you to everyone who chimed in and helped me out with this. used it all day today and it shot great, no breaks and no problems all day!

thanks a million, keep an eye out for a big for sale thread in the BST coming soon. I've got all sorts of spare bodies and gripframes and grips along with some extra vales and other stuff too. Since i've got mine working perfectly now I wont be needing any of the other stuff.

later,

-SW

[athomas]

Good to hear everything is working as it should.