Soldering power leads to emag board

[robander3]

Hey all,
I recently fried my emag board and had it fixed, and now I'm having a HUGE issue with reconnecting the power wire to the board, I had it once but it was a weak connection and failed. I've been trying to get it for a while now and the solder just doesn't seem to want to stick. In my own opinion I'm a poor solder. Any suggestions on how other people did it will be greatly helpful. Or is someone in the Albany, NY area is a good solder and wants to help me out that would be perfect.

Thanks,
-Rob

[tbaggin]

make sur ewhen you are soldering you ar eusing a lil bit of flux. it helps the solder stick good.

I do micro-soldering on cell phones, and i hardly have issues

[SeeK]

Hey all,
I recently fried my emag board and had it fixed, and now I'm having a HUGE issue with reconnecting the power wire to the board, I had it once but it was a weak connection and failed. I've been trying to get it for a while now and the solder just doesn't seem to want to stick. In my own opinion I'm a poor solder. Any suggestions on how other people did it will be greatly helpful. Or is someone in the Albany, NY area is a good solder and wants to help me out that would be perfect.

Thanks,
-Rob

First, make sure you are using electronic solder and not automotive solder with acid.

Put several layers of newspaper beneath your solder area in case you drip.

Then tin the wire first by heating it with the iron and then touching the solder on the other side of the wire. When it's hot enough to melt it will flow towards the heat (iron). Once it starts to melt you can pull both away since that part doesn't require much.

Next heat the point on the board you want to attach the wire and in the same way, put the solder on the board if there is space. If not, then touch the solder to the iron and the solder point and pull both away when it starts to melt. That is a very small amount of metal and doesn't take as long to heat as wire usually does.

At this point, you have both parts with some solder.

With the wire in one hand (you may want to use long nose pliers to hold it closer to the end so you can see your work) and the iron in the other touch the wire to the solder point and press down on it with the iron. Once it melts, remove the iron.

Since both sides have the solder they should bond tightly.

[my automag]

make sure when you are soldering you are using a little bit of flux. it helps the solder stick good.

I do micro-soldering on cell phones, and i hardly have issues

Sounds like exactly what he said...

>>>>>>>>>>>Rosin (Acid) Paste Flux<<<<<<<<<<<

Most flux is a POISONOUS, CORROSIVE, and oily substance that helps solder flow correctly, and is helpful to making a good solder connection.

There is a few choices too... any (cheapest) are fine in your case, but if you can be picky try for number two, but wipe dry and very clean when finished.


1. Type R containing only rosin is the least active and is recommended for surfaces very clean to start with. It leaves virtually no residue behind.


2. Type RMA contains a small amount of additional activator to enhance cleaning and deoxidization leaving only a minimum amount of inert residue behind. A characteristic of RMA fluxes is that the remaining residue be noncorrosive, tack free, and exhibit a high degree of freedom from ionic contamination after cleaning.

3. Type RA are most active of the rosin fluxes, and leave the most residue, however the residues can be removed with appropriate flux cleaners. These 3 fluxes (R, RMA, RA) are the only ones specified for mil spec work (Mil-F-14256E , ANSI/IPC-SF-818 Class 3).


D.K.

[robander3]

Thanks guys, I'll give it a try tomorrow, and yes I have at least been using electrical solder, but I'll give it a shot with the flux as well.
I'll post how it goes.
Thanks,
-Rob

[Hobbez]

First, make sure you are using electronic solder and not automotive solder with acid.

Put several layers of newspaper beneath your solder area in case you drip.

Then tin the wire first by heating it with the iron and then touching the solder on the other side of the wire. When it's hot enough to melt it will flow towards the heat (iron). Once it starts to melt you can pull both away since that part doesn't require much.

Next heat the point on the board you want to attach the wire and in the same way, put the solder on the board if there is space. If not, then touch the solder to the iron and the solder point and pull both away when it starts to melt. That is a very small amount of metal and doesn't take as long to heat as wire usually does.

At this point, you have both parts with some solder.

With the wire in one hand (you may want to use long nose pliers to hold it closer to the end so you can see your work) and the iron in the other touch the wire to the solder point and press down on it with the iron. Once it melts, remove the iron.

Since both sides have the solder they should bond tightly.

This is a very good explanation of soldering except for one detail. Your solder should melt and flow when touching what your soldering, NOT when you touch your iron's tip. If your solder will only flow by touching it with your iron, you don't have enough heat on your work. Alreays remember the golden rule of soldering: If its grey, it won't last. If its shiny silver, you got it right.

[Tunaman]

The Emag board has a hole in it that MUST be desoldered with a pump. After desoldering the hole, insert the positive lead in the BOTTOM of the board and resolder from the TOP. Inserting the lead too far or cutting it will result in the lead being too short.

[robander3]

The Emag board has a hole in it that MUST be desoldered with a pump. After desoldering the hole, insert the positive lead in the BOTTOM of the board and resolder from the TOP. Inserting the lead too far or cutting it will result in the lead being too short.

Thanks for the tip tuna, I'll be sure to get a pump before I do it, I'm waiting on a battery now.