First mag, trigger issues

[DarkApollo]

I have a PTP09MM with a brand new X-Valve.
Im using the 1.5 carrier with 3 shims and it will lock up when it pinches a ball but it wont reset for a few trigger pulls, but thats not my problem.

When I pull the trigger slowly, it wont fire but it WILL just leak down the barrel. When I pull the trigger fast, about 95% of the time it will fire, and the other 5% it chuffs. I figure the valve needs broken in more. I only put about 750 rounds through it today.
I was trying to find the right spot and pressure on the trigger to get it to RT and thats when I noticed the slow trigger chuffing.
When I DID get it to RT, only once was it actually FAST, the other few times, it was slower then I could pull the trigger.

Any help for a novice?

[shooter311]

You might want to post this in the Tech forum, you will probably get better answers there.

I would try using 2 shims for your level 10, and see if that solves the bolt problem.

As for the trigger, make sure you have a gap about the depth of a credit card between the trigger and rod. See if that helps.

Also, what output pressure is your tank?

[DarkApollo]

You might want to post this in the Tech forum, you will probably get better answers there.

I would try using 2 shims for your level 10, and see if that solves the bolt problem.

As for the trigger, make sure you have a gap about the depth of a credit card between the trigger and rod. See if that helps.

Also, what output pressure is your tank?

Where is the face palm emote.. I THOUGHT i had put it in the Tech forum.. I R SPEDESHUL.. If a mod could move this for me? -edit- Thanks Mods!!

Ill take a shim out, Tuna probably had it set up correctly when he sent it, but of course, I had to screw with it..

Never knew about the credit card gap thing. The trigger rod is touching the trigger at rest. Ill adjust it to see if that helps.

Its a Ninja adjustable at 850psi line from the ASA right to the valve.

[Ando]

I have a PTP09MM with a brand new X-Valve.
Im using the 1.5 carrier with 3 shims and it will lock up when it pinches a ball but it wont reset for a few trigger pulls, but thats not my problem.

When I pull the trigger slowly, it wont fire but it WILL just leak down the barrel. When I pull the trigger fast, about 95% of the time it will fire, and the other 5% it chuffs. I figure the valve needs broken in more. I only put about 750 rounds through it today.
I was trying to find the right spot and pressure on the trigger to get it to RT and thats when I noticed the slow trigger chuffing.
When I DID get it to RT, only once was it actually FAST, the other few times, it was slower then I could pull the trigger.

Any help for a novice?

Sounds like bolt stick. What spring are you using (Gold, Red, Silver)? Use your gold spring, go up a carrier and removed all the shims out of the PT. Make sure you re-use the same white carrier oring or your just going to be chasing your tail around.


#2 is the oring you want to keep using when you change out the the next larger carrier (#4). #5 are the shims you want to pull out completely for now.

If it doesn't leak after installing a larger carrier, keep going up till it does then go back to the last carrier that wasn't leaking. That should be your money carrier.

From there trip your lvl 10 and see if it resets properly. If it hangs up / doesn't reset properly then start adding shims one at a time till it does.

You should be good from there. If you have any of the larger springs (red or silver), you should be good to go in install them. The stronger the spring the softer the lvl 10 will be on the paint.

Here's a good tuning guide for your silver spring (#9)...do not use it as is...Your red spring should be good as-is.

5) Once you find the correct carrier size, your setup is good to go.
6) install the correct bolt spring for the bolt force you want your setup to operate at. For optimum operation, your gun should operate at a velocity that is about 20 feet per second above the lowest velocity that the gun starts to shoot. ie; If the gun starts to cycle at 250 fps with the gold spring, then your optimum velocity would be 270 fps for maximum antichop. The gun will operate fine at anything above that velocity setting. By going to the next larger bolt spring you could increase the minimum operating velocity to 270 fps and thus your optimum velocity to 290 fps which would be a better fit for most people. These numbers are arbitrary. Select the bolt spring that allows your setup to operate in the velocity range you want. They all differ because of different barrels and such.
7) If you so desire, install powertube shims. The adjust how far the bolt needs to travel in order to vent air and reset if the bolt encounters a jam directly in front of it. Most of the time, an object in the breach will always allow some movement and thus will allow the bolt to vent and reset. You should never need these shims. If your setup fires, or chuffs, or vents in any way, then shims will not help because changing where the bolt vents is all that shims do. They adjust in 0.01 of an inch, so 2 or three shims will be a pretty short distance adjustment. The bolt will almost always move at least that far no matter what anyway.

Hopefully this helps.

[DarkApollo]

Sounds like bolt stick. What spring are you using (Gold, Red, Silver)? Use your gold spring, go up a carrier and removed all the shims out of the PT. Make sure you re-use the same white carrier oring or your just going to be chasing your tail around.


#2 is the oring you want to keep using when you change out the the next larger carrier (#4). #5 are the shims you want to pull out completely for now.

If it doesn't leak after installing a larger carrier, keep going up till it does then go back to the last carrier that wasn't leaking. That should be your money carrier.

From there trip your lvl 10 and see if it resets properly. If it hangs up / doesn't reset properly then start adding shims one at a time till it does.

You should be good from there. If you have any of the larger springs (red or silver), you should be good to go in install them. The stronger the spring the softer the lvl 10 will be on the paint.

Here's a good tuning guide for your silver spring...do not use it as is...

Using the gold spring. My kit only came with 2 springs, silver and gold, and carriers 0-2.5 and im using the largest carrier that I have right now. I had just assumed that since i got it directly from Tuna that the larger carriers were considered not-needed, since the popular consensus is the 2.5 carrier, and thus, not included.

[Ando]

Using the gold spring. My kit only came with 2 springs, silver and gold, and carriers 0-2.5 and im using the largest carrier that I have right now. I had just assumed that since i got it directly from Tuna that the larger carriers were considered not-needed, since the popular consensus is the 2.5 carrier, and thus, not included.

New kits only come with 4 carriers and 2 springs now. The new orings currently being used are manufactured a lot better from yesteryear. There were 9 carriers in the older kits due to the different tolerances of the older orings.

There's been a few issues with those bodies. I know BigEvil can't evenget his to work. One guys breach was reported damaged (mushroomed) from the spring/bolt. Some of the larger classic valves won't fit and were told to use a mallet to get them installed by someoene PTP recommended. BigEvil had 2 or 3 mags sent to him just to get valves out of the body. I can only imagine what Tunas received so far. I don't have one nor have I seen one in person. I pulled out of that ordeal when everything was coming to an end. Out of the 100 or so mags at Tunaball. Not one was a new PTP body (at least I didn't see it).

As for your marker not firing when you pull the trigger slowly. I would ck the tank output PSI. If it's a low pressure regulator or your tank is reading under 800-1000psi. The valve will sometimes act a little
Also, ck the FPS (velocity) of the valve. Too low velocity will also cause the valve to act

Few basic things that should be ck'ed for GP since your new...
What on/off are you using? Best to go with a stock on/off when trouble shooting.
Do you have a gap between the trigger and sear arm? Should be the thickness of a credit card (1/16 in).
Detentes? Make sure they're not in too far. That will cause premature lvl 10 activation, ball breakage or damage to the detentes themselves.

I'll update this here in a few. Kids are needing me.

[DarkApollo]

Well I got the VALVE new from Tuna and it IS a little snug but far from needing a mallet to install. I got the body from a member on here Going_Home. I think I might take some sand paper to the inside body to loosen things up a bit. That MIGHT actually be the issue now that you reminded me of the machining issues, the slow release of pressure and the snugness of the body might jam it up.
Tank output is 850psi (so says the gauge on the ASA) and velocity is set to 297+/-2

Trigger to rod gap, check (triple checked that last night)

Stock RT On/Off with the super heavy trigger pull.

Detentes were actually really loose, one fell out when I was firing it (blue loc-tite FTW).

If I didnt have to work you would have seen me at TunaBowl with my 09

[DarkApollo]

Ok now its not firing with paint at all.
Two shims. Everything else is the same.

[athomas]

Since you are using the largest 2.5 carrier size without leaking, try a new white carrier oring. That one may be oversized for some reason. Take all of the shims out of the powertube for now.

With the largest carrier installed try putting the valve into the body without the bolt spring. Don't put the air tank on the gun. Hold the trigger and tilt the gun back and forth to see if the bolt slides freely on its own.