Micromag questions

[Jiker]

I have a project Micromag with the classic micro valve. The gun works fine, but I have some mods I'm thinking of trying. I'm still a mag noob, but i'm learning!

First is switching from the benchmark frame to the standard CF frame. My body is on the way to Lukes Customs right now to get the sear pin to stay in there somehow, so the wing issue is resolved. But what about the sear itself? Do I need a different one, or will i just have to adjust the trigger pin once i get the new frame? The trigger pin is seized right now - so this might prove difficult. Any recommendations is helpful (do i just need a good penetrating lubricant?).

I've also heard about putting an RT on/off in the classic valve to make the pull lighter. What is involved in this? is the entire on/off replaced (top/bottom/pin/all orings)? I've found a few threads on this, but I didnt find anything conclusive. what length on/off pin is necessary?

Would this be a worthwhile mod? I like the trigger pull weight of the Benchmark frame, slightly lighter since the pin is higher on the back of the trigger (more leverage), but it is also longer and horribly sloppy. I'm hoping the CF frame would resolve these issues, and if the RT on/off will bring the weight down, it might be the ideal setup.

Lastly, i've tried to separate the reg from the... mid section? of the valve, but I was unsuccessful with the tools at my disposal (i'm trying not to gouge the crap out of the valve with pliers). I'm not having issues - the gun seems to shoot fine, but the laser engraving isn't quite matched up. Would that cause any issues with air flow or anything?

Thanks for the help!

[athomas]

But what about the sear itself? Do I need a different one, or will i just have to adjust the trigger pin once i get the new frame? The trigger pin is seized right now - so this might prove difficult. Any recommendations is helpful (do i just need a good penetrating lubricant?).

The micro uses the classic sear. The one that is in the body now is a classic sear.

I assume you mean the trigger rod when you mention trigger pin. It is held with loctite to prevent turning. Heat it with a flame and you will break the bond.

I've also heard about putting an RT on/off in the classic valve to make the pull lighter. What is involved in this? is the entire on/off replaced (top/bottom/pin/all orings)? I've found a few threads on this, but I didnt find anything conclusive. what length on/off pin is necessary?

Would this be a worthwhile mod? I like the trigger pull weight of the Benchmark frame, slightly lighter since the pin is higher on the back of the trigger (more leverage), but it is also longer and horribly sloppy. I'm hoping the CF frame would resolve these issues, and if the RT on/off will bring the weight down, it might be the ideal setup

The Rt on-off will cut your trigger pull force in half. You replace the entire assembly. It is a drop in replacement. Use the standard 0.750" pin.

The benchmark frame is noted for its slop. It can make the trigger pull feel a bit spongy sometimes. You can fix this by placing shims on the trigger pivot pin between the sides of the trigger and the grip frame. It will give the trigger a more crisp feel.

The carbon fiber frame is a bit better than the benchmark frame for stock tolerances, but even it has some slack that should be shimmed. If you want a nice frame, get an AGD Intelliframe or one of the aftermarket vertical frames sold here by some of the vendors.

Lastly, i've tried to separate the reg from the... mid section? of the valve, but I was unsuccessful with the tools at my disposal (i'm trying not to gouge the crap out of the valve with pliers). I'm not having issues - the gun seems to shoot fine, but the laser engraving isn't quite matched up. Would that cause any issues with air flow or anything?

Thanks for the help!

The engraving can be off just a bit. It won't hurt it.

The valve has a flat section where the on-off assembly is. Put a wrench around the valve so that one of the jaws is tight against the flat section. Use a strap wrench on the back half of the valve. With this leverage, you should be able to unscrew the two halves. If you take the valve apart, you will have to change the regulator seat oring. With the valve apart, check that the little hole between the front and back sections of the valve line up. If they do, then you are good to go. If not, then you might want to drill a hole in the back section to match the location of the one in the front section. You'll have to drill it at an angle into the adjuster section, the same as the one that is there now.

[Jiker]

Thanks for the response! I didnt know you had to replace the reg seat every time you disassemble. It's probably good that I couldnt get the halves apart.. I still need to order a parts kit so I'm prepared.

Where can I order appropriate shims? is it something I need to order online or can I find them at a decent hardware store?

[athomas]

You don't have to replace the regulator seat every time you disassemble, just when it is old and you disassemble. The seat, like any oring material, hardens as it gets older. When you take the valve apart, it will break the seal which is a tiny indentation you can see as a ring and also changes the alignment where the regulator pin assembly hits. There is an indentation there too. If these don' line up perfectly, the mag will not regulate properly. Once those indentations form and become permanent, any movement of the seat will result in leakage, which necessitates replacement. This is why we always tell people to change the seat when you take the valve apart. When the seat is new, before the indentations form, you can assemble and disassemble quite a few times without harming it.

Any thin shims will do as long as the inner hole is large enough for the trigger pivot pin. You can even cut your own from shim stock and punch your own holes if you have an appropriate tool for doing it. A hardware store is more likely to have shim stock than shims. Some hobby shops or specialty stores carry actual shims.

[Jiker]

Great info, thanks again. I dont know if the seals have ever been replaced and the gun is 16 years old. I better have a reg seat when I disassemble.. :)

I'll definitely try to find shims somewhere, as I dont have said tools to cut/punch my own.

[athomas]

Clamp some shim stock between two pieces of mdf wood. Drill a couple of holes in it the size that you need. Then remove the flat shim stock and cut around the holes with tin snips to create a round shim with a hole in the middle. The shim stock sandwiched between the mdf wood will keep it from tearing when you drill it, and will allow a nice clean cut.

If the seals are that old, it is probably a good idea to replace all the orings in the valve.