Questions about Classic RT

[W4LNUT5]

Full Album:

http://imgur.com/a/kQ5AU#0

Quick Pic:

http://i.imgur.com/MaF5C.jpg

So I picked up this Classic RT in a craigslist package deal about a month or two ago. I haven't done anything with it until recently. I was going to sell it, but have decided that I'll just keep it and make it my next project. I'm a cocker/vintage-DM guy but I'm willing to learn.

I know nothing about it except that it's a Classic RT, and the parts aren't interchangeable from other mags (without some extra effort). I really want to know how I find out what level bolt is currently installed (and I'm guessing you'll say I must tear it apart). I stuck my finger in the power feed tube, and could feel that the bolt has a rubber tip (if that matters).

The marker slightly leaks down the barrel occasionally, sometimes on simply aired up, sometimes while the trigger is held. I've sent some oil through it with no change. So I'm likely going to buy the RT rebuild kit they have on Ansgear anyways, so tearing it apart is no problem.

I'm also thinking of getting a Y-grip for the classic RT if AGD still does these for regular RTs. It just says on their site to call. I have a warp, so I'll be building a warp harness for the frame so I can connect it to my warp (as long as the y-frame still has the mounting screws for the switch)

Any insight you guys have would be appreciated. Thanks
~Walnuts

[W4LNUT5]

Pictures of bolt for ID (however with the overwhelming response, no one seems to care)

http://i.imgur.com/UWpDA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RG1zT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ChO3R.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1ISTj.jpg

[correia3]

It's a level 10 bolt. I don't know if AGD still manufactures the Y-Grip, but you should be able to find one here in the BST area...It should still have the mounting point for the micro switch for the warp mod unless it was removed by a previous owner - just be sure to ask...GL

[redlaser666]

From what I can see your bolt bumper is a mess. The RT parts kit will come with a new one as well as all the o-rings for the rest of the valve.

You have a LV10. You will need a set of cariers if you need to tune it once you change the o-ring. You can find a few good videos on youtube with instructions on how to do it.

As far as the leak, If you hold the trigger and it leaks the problem is one of the on/off valve orings. When you get the parts kit just completly rebuild the vlave and that will solve most of your issues. LV10 tuning will be the last thing you need to do.

[skipdogg]

Make sure Y grip has large hole for banjo bolt

[W4LNUT5]

I actually just purchased a Logic frame instead from a user on here. I have a guy I know on PBN who can do some anno for cheap, and the project logic frame seemed like a good choice. It's already been drilled for a classic RT, so it should fit fine.

Sorry about the images, normally they are re-sized automatically most places I visit. I'll scale them down before posting here in the future.

[skipdogg]

Oh and Welcome to AO!!!
Were old and slow around here sometimes so be patient

[W4LNUT5]

Oh and Welcome to AO!!!
Were old and slow around here sometimes so be patient

Thanks! And don't mind my dry sense of humor. It's very dry, and words don't quite convey properly.

[athomas]

You should do a complete oring replacement right off the start. That way you will know that everything is good to go. If the gun didn't have any level 10 carriers supplied with it, you should get a set so that you can tune the level 10 bolt. Otherwise you may end up with a gun that won't work quite right and you won't be able to do anything about it. Find out which carrier is currently installed so that you don't have to buy that one.

If you fire the gun and hold the trigger, it may leak for a second or two, but then it should stop and be air tight. If it continues to leak out the front, then you need to go to the next smaller carrier size. Make sure you remove all shims from the powertube first. They can cause false leaks. Don't even use them unless it is deemed to be an absolute necessity for your specific setup (which is usually never). If the leak stops when you hold the trigger, your on-off top oring is probably bad. As mentioned, you should probably replace all the orings to start anyway.

[W4LNUT5]

You should do a complete oring replacement right off the start. That way you will know that everything is good to go. If the gun didn't have any level 10 carriers supplied with it, you should get a set so that you can tune the level 10 bolt. Otherwise you may end up with a gun that won't work quite right and you won't be able to do anything about it. Find out which carrier is currently installed so that you don't have to buy that one.

If you fire the gun and hold the trigger, it may leak for a second or two, but then it should stop and be air tight. If it continues to leak out the front, then you need to go to the next smaller carrier size. Make sure you remove all shims from the powertube first. They can cause false leaks. Don't even use them unless it is deemed to be an absolute necessity for your specific setup (which is usually never). If the leak stops when you hold the trigger, your on-off top oring is probably bad. As mentioned, you should probably replace all the orings to start anyway.

Thanks. I'm just waiting on the parts kit from ansgear or this would be ripping by now (ans feels horribly slow when I'm used to places like newegg being soo fast). Any orings that aren't already included I can get from the hardware store where I work.

I don't have any other carriers that I know of, but if I'm going to buy them I might as well wait to buy them until I know I need them. I'll probably need to buy the other springs as well. But like before, I'll wait and see. I could be lucky.

[athomas]

If you don't have any carriers, make sure you don't change the powertube oring. The carriers are used to adjust the inner diameter of that oring. Each oring is a bit different which is why we need a bunch of different carrier sizes.

[W4LNUT5]

Parts kit and Logic frame arrived today

So I replaced all the orings (except power tube), and she doesn't leak when idle or when fired. Something didn't feel right, but I've only tested a few shots. The bolt isn't sticking or anything like that. It's possible that it's chuffing as I believe it's called from the level 10, but my air tank started dipping below 800psi output, so I'm making no changes until that happens on a full tank.

Also, I tried using the logic frame that arrived today, and nothing I do seems to work. Original frame works fine, but the logic frame wont fire the marker no matter what. I made sure the pin was about a credit cards width away from the trigger. I did not adjust the rod to do that as the frame has a set screw for that where the rod contacts it.

[athomas]

A low tank can cause issues with chuffing. The chamber needs to be fully charged for a level 10 mag to work properly.

The frame really doesn't change anything firing wise. The sear is part of the rail, so the valve should fire. Perhaps the sear isn't being pushed back far enough to release the bolt.

[W4LNUT5]

A low tank can cause issues with chuffing. The chamber needs to be fully charged for a level 10 mag to work properly.

The frame really doesn't change anything firing wise. The sear is part of the rail, so the valve should fire. Perhaps the sear isn't being pushed back far enough to release the bolt.

That's what I figured. I found it odd that switching frames made a difference at all once I got in there and found out how they worked. I have a scuba, but she's only filling to 1200-1300ish currently.

It was probably something hung-up inside, and I bet if I was to stick the logic frame on now, I'd have no issue with it.