I recently drilled out a AM/MM rail to accept an emag body I had laying around just wondering if I didn't get the rail drilled properly if the alignment of the body to the rail will cause it to have shoot down problems because I through the valve on another minimag rail and body, un-drilled and it works perfect so how can u tell if the alginment is good other than eyeballing it?
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There really isn't any way of telling.
Few things you would need to ck.
Rail bushing installed - need it 100%
Fount screw tightness - should be snug or ridiculousness tight depending on how screwed up the enlightenment is.
I would try messing around with the thumb and frame screws. Snug the front one down and very lightly finger tight the back one. Air it up and get an allen key and start messing round with both.
I have a mag that literally needs the thumb and frame screw wrenched down extremely tight in order for it to work properly. It's something you'll need to figure out on your own unfortunately. -
do you have another mag you can throw the valve into to see if it does it there too?Comment
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I assume you mean that you drilled the pim hole a bit deeper since the emag pim on the bottom of the body is a tiny bit longer than the ones on the mag/minimag bodies. You need to make sure the pim doesn't touch anywhere in the newly drilled hole or it won't work. You really can't use a drill bit for this because they are tapered. You need either an end-mill bit or a grinding stone. Not much has to come off, so it should be fairly easy. The easiest thing to do is to grind the bottom of the pim. That way it will fit all rails. You also have easy access to the pim and can use a standard flat file.Originally posted by Mobius V
The body should fit flat against the rail. There should be no rocking motion or up and down movement when the body is sitting on the rail.
Make sure the sear pin is fully pressed into the rail, or your sear/on-off timing will be off. That can cause shootdown issues.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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So your saying grind down the Pim on the body itself? That's a good idea will this have any adverse effects if this emag body was to go back on a rt/emag rail?Comment
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I will try that option and the screw tightening experiments and see if I can get it working again and post back soon thanks all merry xmas
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If you have a pair of calipers, you can measure how far the sear pin sits from the body surface. The difference between shootdown and no shootdown can be 0.020". The shootdown rail would be the shorter distance of the two.Originally posted by athomasComment
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Whoops! No more posting when tired for me...Originally posted by Ando...
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Milling the rail
When i milled out my a/m rail for an RT body, the problem I found was that I wasn't going wide enough, since the base of the pim is a bit wider than the tip, it is a bit deceptive to see, but I saw it because the edge of my new pim hole was abrading near the base of the pim on the body. I had to go almost to the width of the original rectangle pim hole before it was wide enough to align properly. Another way to see if the alignment is correct is to look at the last inch or so of the rail on either side. If you can see daylight between the body and the rail at any angle, then the alignment is not correct. (two flat pieces sitting flush shouldn't have a gap.)Comment
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Messed around with it, ground the pim down and adjusted the body and the valve and got it to shoot normal with no shootdown with the emag body on so I got that figured out now just needs a little fine tuning on the grind work thanks for the tips everyone.
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