hello, thought I would see what the masses have to say. I am considering buying a automag RT classic, I have wanted one since they have came out. The ownwer of the one I am looking at says it fires well but at times the bolt sticks. He says he has replaced the o-rings. Just wondering if someone may know the cause or whether or not this is going to be a good buy or not. Thats all the details I have. Thanks everyone.
Sticking Bolt
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At this point in time I wouldn't recommend a new Mag owner buying a R/T Classic , especially if it wasn't running right ( unless it was way cheap & have some aspirin )
At this point you can pick up nice X valved Ule'd Mags for great prices , saw one sell last week for 300$ , it's not like that everyday but if you wait & watch
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Bolt stick can be easily fixed. It is usually attributed to a worn bolt spring, or powertube spacer that is too short in a level 7 bolt setup, or a carrier that is too tight in a level 10 setup.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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And it could be something as simple as a field strip screw that's too tight.Originally posted by athomasBolt stick can be easily fixed. It is usually attributed to a worn bolt spring, or powertube spacer that is too short in a level 7 bolt setup, or a carrier that is too tight in a level 10 setup.
What's the asking price? If he's letting it go for cheap, then bolt stick is definitely NOT a reason to refuse a deal.
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bolt stick after it fires
i have xvalve lvl10 bolt stick after it fires
new spring
68/4500 3000psi left in bottle ninja shp reg 1050 output
field strip screw not too tight
correct carrier its not tight its not loose the next one is too loose and leaks
all orings gone through appear to be new reg springs greased on/off is rt .750pin i believeLast edited by river031403; 01-21-2012, 06:42 AM.
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Make sure nothing is interfering with the lvl 10 (detents...barrel...etc...)...Pull your detents and barrel off and fire it.
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ando
this is with no barrelOriginally posted by AndoMake sure nothing is interfering with the lvl 10 (detents...barrel...etc...)...Pull your detents and barrel off and fire it.
what next
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What happens when you hold the trigger after you fire the gun? Does it continue to leak out the front? Does the bolt stay forward a tiny bit? Do you need to manually reset the bolt by pushing on the front when you release the trigger?Originally posted by river031403i have xvalve lvl10 bolt stick after it fires
new spring
68/4500 3000psi left in bottle ninja shp reg 1050 output
field strip screw not too tight
correct carrier its not tight its not loose the next one is too loose and leaks
all orings gone through appear to be new reg springs greased on/off is rt .750pin i believe
Set the valve vertically on a flat surface and gently place the bolt in the powertube until it rests against the carrier oring. Release the bolt. It should stay put. Gently tap the valve. The bolt should slide down so that it touches the bumper. If it takes a heavy tap, then the carrier size is too small.
The level 10 works using differential forces. If the bolt spring is new, and there is minimal friction on the carrier oring due to tension, it should work as long as the velocity setting is correct. If the gun fires, the velocity setting is correct. If there is no friction, then there is nothing to stop the bolt from resetting from a level 10 standpoint. So, if the carrier oring is the proper size and you still get bolt stick after a shot, then there is probably something else that is causing it. You can check this by using the carrier that is one size too loose. you will get a tiny leak out the front under normal conditions, but the gun should fire and reset. If it still does not reset properly using a carrier that is known to be too large, then the problem is definitely not due to carrier friction unless the carrier oring itself is defective.
Excess air in the front chamber works against the force of the bolt spring and can prevent a proper bolt reset. The air can come from the on-off area or via another route through the regulator itself past the regulator valve pin oring.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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still does it with the oversized carrier and yes i have to manually push bolt in order for it to resetOriginally posted by athomasWhat happens when you hold the trigger after you fire the gun? Does it continue to leak out the front? Does the bolt stay forward a tiny bit? Do you need to manually reset the bolt by pushing on the front when you release the trigger?
Set the valve vertically on a flat surface and gently place the bolt in the powertube until it rests against the carrier oring. Release the bolt. It should stay put. Gently tap the valve. The bolt should slide down so that it touches the bumper. If it takes a heavy tap, then the carrier size is too small.
The level 10 works using differential forces. If the bolt spring is new, and there is minimal friction on the carrier oring due to tension, it should work as long as the velocity setting is correct. If the gun fires, the velocity setting is correct. If there is no friction, then there is nothing to stop the bolt from resetting from a level 10 standpoint. So, if the carrier oring is the proper size and you still get bolt stick after a shot, then there is probably something else that is causing it. You can check this by using the carrier that is one size too loose. you will get a tiny leak out the front under normal conditions, but the gun should fire and reset. If it still does not reset properly using a carrier that is known to be too large, then the problem is definitely not due to carrier friction unless the carrier oring itself is defective.
Excess air in the front chamber works against the force of the bolt spring and can prevent a proper bolt reset. The air can come from the on-off area or via another route through the regulator itself past the regulator valve pin oring.
whats next
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Rail bushing?
Could try a stronger bolt spring or swap out the sear for troubleshooting.
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