Micro e-mag

[DCx7]

I want to get e-mag lowers for my micromag. Here's my micromag so far

Is there anything I need to know about e-mag lowers? I heard they are somewhat finicky, especially on micromags. Is this true? Just throw your information about em here. I was gonna get a new shp 90/45 but now I might just save up a hundred or so more and get e-mag lowers. I know I need the e-mag on/off pin, but that's just about it. Like I said before, anything I need to know?

[Frizzle Fry]

You'll need a special PTP sear, and probably will want a PTP dust shield spacer for between the frame and body (difficult to find). You might want a vanity plate to make it look better (also difficult to find), and you'd probably want it to match ano'ed to look like the marker, which will be tough as well. You're going to need a feeding system to keep up with it, which can be difficult with the stock PTP powerfeed.

My advice - sell what you have, buy a genuine PTP Emag. It will cost less, work better, and you won't be contributing to the ruining of mostly-matched PK Selective Micromags (kind of my pet peeve). It's tough to do what you're trying to do.

[DCx7]

You'll need a special PTP sear, and probably will want a PTP dust shield spacer for between the frame and body (difficult to find). You might want a vanity plate to make it look better (also difficult to find), and you'd probably want it to match ano'ed to look like the marker, which will be tough as well. You're going to need a feeding system to keep up with it, which can be difficult with the stock PTP powerfeed.

My advice - sell what you have, buy a genuine PTP Emag. It will cost less, work better, and you won't be contributing to the ruining of mostly-matched PK Selective Micromags (kind of my pet peeve). It's tough to do what you're trying to do.

I don't know about all the different parts and will research now about it, but for the feeding system, I could just get a warpfeed for it. I have a pinokio but that sticks up too far because of the elbow, even then I could just get a vlocity jr. I wouldn't mind a black e-mag lower and the upper with the rest of the alien anno. You don't see much of the anno'd gripframe anyways. Keep in mind I bought that mag for 250$. Emag lowers are 250-375. So put together plus those other parts and a warp feed are around 700-750 in total. I see micro e-mags going for 550-800. I'll be either losing around 175$ or gaining 100$. If I ever wanted to sell my micromag with the e-mag lowers. I will have the original gripframe and original vert asa adaptor which is hard to find to add on to it. So....give or take 60-70$ loss over a genuine ptp e-mag. I'd rather have fun and building this project then going through the hassle of selling my micromag and buying the e-mag. Sure it'll take a while to build it up, I assume that the dust shield spacer and the vanity plate are not NEEDED for the gun to operate, so as I go, I'll just look and research on where to buy em. Why do you say the original ptp micro e-mags would work better than just a regular micromag with e-mag lowers?

[maniacmechanic]

you will need the spacer plate ( I have a new/raw one , if your interested ) and the sear , you can do it without the vanity plate
"Why do you say the original ptp micro e-mags would work better than just a regular micromag with e-mag lowers?"
I think Fizzle was saying is , if you buy a complete one , it will be a shooter out of the box , some builds just aren't as easy as others

[Coralis]

put a hyper frame on it or another type of e frame on it ... no space required then and probably save you some money on anno if you try to get something that matched or is close to matching what you have. If you are real handy with tools you might even be able to mod you existing frame to accept a tboard, solenoid and battery.

[DCx7]

What is the vanity plate? Can I get a picture of it? PTP still has some spacers and on/off's left so I'll order some of those sooner or later. I emailed tunaman about the sear assembly. But seriously, what is a vanity plate? Can I get a picture of one? I don't want a regular e-frame I really want an e-mag lower. I really like the look of the battery pack for some reason. I'm not very good at modding either. Hyperframes are unreliable and there are egoframes but I don't want to tamper with an ego grip frame.

[athomas]

You'll need the body spacer, a shorter 0.685" PTP emag pin, and a PTP emag sear assembly. Those three items will get you a working micro-emag. The vanity plate is just a filler piece that fits over the front of the emag battery pack where the front grip attaches and covers up the screw hole where the front grip goes. You really don't need it.

Did you have any issues with your level 10 when it was installed on this body? These breach size in these bodies are quite tight for level 10 bolts. Most of the time you have to sand down the front lip of the bolt to get them to cycle properly.

[Frizzle Fry]

I think Fizzle was saying is , if you buy a complete one , it will be a shooter out of the box , some builds just aren't as easy as others

Exactly. If you buy a MicroEmag, it will just need to be tuned like any other mag. If not...

You will need a set of Emag lowers, and you'll need to remove the sear (which is attached to the solenoid and requires you to disassemble it) and replace it with a fairly difficult to find PTP Emag sear - the stock Emag sear has a bearing/bushing like an R/T Pro sear, and the Micromag will not accept it. The PTP sear is an Emag sear that mount to classic rails and Micros.

The vanity plate replaces the V/A or Foregrip on your marker, otherwise it looks pretty odd with the wedge shaped mounting area exposed and the battery pack jutting out from under it. The milling is the curvy MicroE/Micro2000 style, and it will not match the body, but it's better than nothing. It also protects the top of the battery pack.

The dust shield / frame spacer is just a thin piece cut to the shape of the top outline of the frame - it is sandwiched between the frame and the body and does double duty preventing debris from getting in and shimming the mechanical assembly. Nothing is worse than a hall sensor not functioning due to magnetic dust build up, except maybe an untunable mag with no spacer (and it's very frustrating)

Lastly you'll need the shortest on/off pin you can get your hands on, then you're going to want to shave it down a little. PTP had their own but that was intended for the Gen5/6 center feed body which I've found has very different specs. You've got a Gen4 Micromag there, so you'll wanna go small.

Again, my advice is save the time and trouble (and oh-so-much cash) and get the gun you want.

[Frizzle Fry]

Did you have any issues with your level 10 when it was installed on this body? These breach size in these bodies are quite tight for level 10 bolts. Most of the time you have to sand down the front lip of the bolt to get them to cycle properly.

Gen4, no problems. Gen 1/2 with the bolt on detentes were the ones with issues.

[athomas]

I have the exact body as shown and it had the breach size issues with the level 10.

[Frizzle Fry]

I have the exact body as shown and it had the breach size issues with the level 10.

Really? That's weird. I know you've owned plenty of mags, but I've owned upwards of 70 Micros and the only ones that ever were iffy with LVL10 for me were (all of) the fixed barrel bolt-on detente Gen1 and the AC threaded bolt-on detente Gen2. Could be a fluke, or could just be good luck on my part.

[DCx7]

Really? That's weird. I know you've owned plenty of mags, but I've owned upwards of 70 Micros and the only ones that ever were iffy with LVL10 for me were (all of) the fixed barrel bolt-on detente Gen1 and the AC threaded bolt-on detente Gen2. Could be a fluke, or could just be good luck on my part.

Getting all the parts and the lowers together with the gun costs the same as the micro e-mags going on sale for the bst as I stated in my other post. PTP has everything but the sear assembly. Can I take the e-mag sear and take out the brass bushing?

[athomas]

Can I take the e-mag sear and take out the brass bushing?

You need to keep the brass bushing in there. If you take it out, the hole that is left, is too large. You will need to shave the bushing so that it is flat with the sides of the sear. Then, drill the hole out to the correct size to fit the sear pin.

[Ando]

I would drill the hole before you shave the sides of the bushing. That way the chances of you pushing that bushing out while you drill the hole larger won't be a factor.

[DCx7]

Could I just take a dremel and cut the sides of the bushing out then take a drill bit and cut it out?