My gift to me RT has a double benchmark frame. Trigger has tremendous side to side slop. New trigger or shim? If shim which side should I put punch on to drive pin out.
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I happen to have mine out right now, working on a few changes.
I drove the pin out from the right/starboard/passenger side of the frame. The left side of the pin is knurled.
I chopped the bottom off and shaped the remaining top, with a little Triggernomic-ish contouring. It's not easy since the trigger is solid stainless. I'll take it as a slight Steyer AUG look.
The other thing I did was to fill in that little semi-circle recess in the top with some silver solder. The trigger rod rides up there in a cam effect, resulting in longer and lighter trigger pull. I'm after raw RT, so I'm keeping the rod low and straight.
The pin is 1/8" diameter, and I'm just now starting to look for an easy shim.
I was looking at Luke's triggers as an alternate, but it would take some filing at least. I have an intelliframe trigger to compare with. The pin hole looks right, but the safety/trigger arm is not the right shape. The top of the Intelli trigger needs to be thinned a bit to fit in the benchmark slot, but I don't know what the rest of it will look like. -
If you need an easy 1/8" shim, you can use macroOriginally posted by Spider-TWI happen to have mine out right now, working on a few changes.
I drove the pin out from the right/starboard/passenger side of the frame. The left side of the pin is knurled.
I chopped the bottom off and shaped the remaining top, with a little Triggernomic-ish contouring. It's not easy since the trigger is solid stainless. I'll take it as a slight Steyer AUG look.
The other thing I did was to fill in that little semi-circle recess in the top with some silver solder. The trigger rod rides up there in a cam effect, resulting in longer and lighter trigger pull. I'm after raw RT, so I'm keeping the rod low and straight.
The pin is 1/8" diameter, and I'm just now starting to look for an easy shim.
I was looking at Luke's triggers as an alternate, but it would take some filing at least. I have an intelliframe trigger to compare with. The pin hole looks right, but the safety/trigger arm is not the right shape. The top of the Intelli trigger needs to be thinned a bit to fit in the benchmark slot, but I don't know what the rest of it will look like.Comment
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As far as I can remember, I think I need a shim that is about 0.010" thick. How it wobbles so much with that little gap is amazing.Originally posted by WiscoballerComment
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for each side, or just one? I can see what I can do for you.Comment
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Just the one I think, and that's pushing it. You can't make it too tight, it will hang the RT.Comment
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let me see what I can do tonight, if I can get one, ill PM you for your address. 1st Target, same to you, if you can tell me if you need one or two.Comment
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pm'd both of you, got 2 .010" spacers made today.Comment
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I will attempt to send them out tomorrow.Comment
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I used shim stock and punched my own shims. Shimming any trigger frame makes it much more crisp.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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I should get a set of hollow punches someday. On soft stuff I'll sharpen some brass, but it doesn't last long.Originally posted by athomasComment
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That macro line shim fits well! I was surprised. I didn't think it would hold up in that thickness. I had to peel off my aluminum HVAC tape to get the 10 mil shim in there, and fish it in with a probe from the inside. It stood up to the pushing and pulling, so I have hope that it will stand up to some RT action. A nice side effect is that even though the trigger isn't completely tight, it can't "rattle" on the macro line shim.Originally posted by WiscoballerComment
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good to hear it worked!Comment
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Classes, term papers, and book reports have me swamped right now. I am working on my masters in education. Will report when get some breathing space.Comment
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