Ninja SHP Reg & .715 Pin Question

[TheMedievalMan]

So I have my tank installed with a SHP regulator. And I didnt know that a shorter pin could also achieve the same R/T effect. But did I waste my money on something I could have achieved differently? Or can a 900/1100 psi regulator and a .715 pin able to fire faster together than if it were only one mod by itself?

-TMM

[ScreamingShiek]

So I have my tank installed with a SHP regulator. And I didnt know that a shorter pin could also achieve the same R/T effect. But did I waste my money on something I could have achieved differently? Or can a 900/1100 psi regulator and a .715 pin able to fire faster together than if it were only one mod by itself?

-TMM

I use a .712 pin with a 915 output Ninja. RTs nicely. At 1000 it will scream. The shorter the pin the lower the pressure needed to achieve RT effect.

[TheMedievalMan]

Ohhhh! Cool! So if I put all of the mods at "maximum", I will be the cruelest player on my team? Not that I like to go to the field that way with strangers. But when I play with only my friends, we like to intimidate each other with a no rules on speed play. So I'm glad to be the top dog on that! I just can't wait to test out the potential of this set-up.

[Tunaman]

I use a .712 pin with a 915 output Ninja. RTs nicely. At 1000 it will scream. The shorter the pin the lower the pressure needed to achieve RT effect.

at the risk of wiping out both your bolt and sear... If your pin is too short, the sear wont return to its full locked up position on the bolt. This will cause issues in the near future...

[kcombs9]

at the risk of wiping out both your bolt and sear... If your pin is too short, the sear wont return to its full locked up position on the bolt. This will cause issues in the near future...

so moral of the story, go with the higher output

[Spider-TW]

so moral of the story, go with the higher output

And best to go with the stock pin if you can get what you want with it.

[Tunaman]

And best to go with the stock pin if you can get what you want with it.

a few thousandths shorter wont hurt...agd uses 740 now. I would say 730 would be pushing the limit of too much wear.

[TheMedievalMan]

a few thousandths shorter wont hurt...agd uses 740 now. I would say 730 would be pushing the limit of too much wear.

So if I keep it at only high pressure output, and no pin modification. I won't have any wear? Even if it shoots fast? So its the shortness of the pin that causes wear, and not the speed in which the gun shoots?

[Spider-TW]

So if I keep it at only high pressure output, and no pin modification. I won't have any wear? Even if it shoots fast? So its the shortness of the pin that causes wear, and not the speed in which the gun shoots?

If you keep your bumper and bolt spring in good shape, you will shoot so much paint before you wear out a sear, I doubt it will bother you.

[athomas]

The length of the pin determines the timing between the on-off shutting off and the sear releasing/catching the bolt. By keeping the pin longer, you ensure that the sear is far enough up on the lip of the bolt when the on-off opens to recharge the chamber that the forward push on the bolt won't cause the edge to hit the tip of the sear. It will actually hit a larger area of the sear. Spreading the force over a larger area reduces the force per area and reduces the amount of wear and damage that can occur. A short on-off pin allows the sear to hit the lip of the bolt like a knife. Eventually it wears the knife edge and it becomes rounded or broken. When this happens, you can't control the operation of the trigger.

With a longer pin you need a bit more force to kick your finger forward far enough allow a full recharge, which is why a high pressure tank is so desirable for reactive trigger enthusiasts. It's definitely the safe way to go, though.

[Spider-TW]

The length of the pin determines the timing between the on-off shutting off and the sear releasing/catching the bolt. By keeping the pin longer, you ensure that the sear is far enough up on the lip of the bolt when the on-off opens to recharge the chamber that the forward push on the bolt won't cause the edge to hit the tip of the sear. It will actually hit a larger area of the sear. Spreading the force over a larger area reduces the force per area and reduces the amount of wear and damage that can occur. A short on-off pin allows the sear to hit the lip of the bolt like a knife. Eventually it wears the knife edge and it becomes rounded or broken. When this happens, you can't control the operation of the trigger.

With a longer pin you need a bit more force to kick your finger forward far enough allow a full recharge, which is why a high pressure tank is so desirable for reactive trigger enthusiasts. It's definitely the safe way to go, though.

We actually worked on a mag this weekend that fell right between the sear catch and the on/off shutoff. It had a trigger stop that kept it there when you held the trigger back, running full auto. After checking everything else out, we found out that the on/off pin was actually an unknown length (used). The pin looked just like a new .712 pin. With frame adjustments, it would still shoot a second time as you released the trigger. I put a quad o-ring in and that set it up for the weekend.

[athomas]

We actually worked on a mag this weekend that fell right between the sear catch and the on/off shutoff. It had a trigger stop that kept it there when you held the trigger back, running full auto. After checking everything else out, we found out that the on/off pin was actually an unknown length (used). The pin looked just like a new .712 pin. With frame adjustments, it would still shoot a second time as you released the trigger. I put a quad o-ring in and that set it up for the weekend.

Yeah, the quad oring is a great way to lower the sealing surface.