XValve Trouble? Or Trigger?

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  • Enhander
    Registered User
    • Mar 2007
    • 483

    #16
    Yes sir,

    Comment

    • Justus
      Justech.us

      • Nov 2010
      • 1515

      #17
      6 drops of oil in the macro fitting closest to the valve, take off the barrel, and dry fire a couple dozen times.

      My Feedback Thread

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      • Enhander
        Registered User
        • Mar 2007
        • 483

        #18
        That was the first thing I did :P

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        • Henchman
          Registered User
          • Feb 2012
          • 269

          #19
          You need to get it to not leak at all without any shims whatsoever, using the gold spring.
          Sounds like you need to go a size 1

          Comment

          • Justus
            Justech.us

            • Nov 2010
            • 1515

            #20
            Honestly, if it's barely audible and goes away after shooting a couple times, I wouldn't worry about it. It'll break in.

            My Feedback Thread

            Comment

            • Henchman
              Registered User
              • Feb 2012
              • 269

              #21
              Originally posted by Justus
              Honestly, if it's barely audible and goes away after shooting a couple times, I wouldn't worry about it. It'll break in.
              I dont think there is much breaking in left n a 4 year old gun.

              Comment

              • Enhander
                Registered User
                • Mar 2007
                • 483

                #22
                Originally posted by Henchman
                You need to get it to not leak at all without any shims whatsoever, using the gold spring.
                Sounds like you need to go a size 1
                Guess I should have clarified. I started out with no shims and there was no initial leak. It only leaked when the trigger was pulled. I installed 1 shim and it improved. Installed 1 more and it almost 100% went away.

                Comment

                • Henchman
                  Registered User
                  • Feb 2012
                  • 269

                  #23
                  Make sure the entire valve air path and trigger assembly is completely clean.

                  Comment

                  • athomas
                    Of course it works-its AGD
                    • Jan 2002
                    • 8039

                    #24
                    Originally posted by Enhander
                    Guess I should have clarified. I started out with no shims and there was no initial leak. It only leaked when the trigger was pulled. I installed 1 shim and it improved. Installed 1 more and it almost 100% went away.
                    Adding shims won't make the leak go away. Shims move the carrier assembly farther back in the powertube so it will actually be closer to the bolt stem vent hole. Run the bolt without any shims installed. You only need the shims installed if the bolt moves forward when you shoot, but does not move far enough to vent air if it hits something in the breach. If it vents, chuffs, or fires at all, adding shims won't help.

                    What do you mean the leak only went away when you installed the shims? Are you referring to the leak disappearing after you fire a shot, or after you pulled the trigger part way? If you are referring to the leak disappearing after a shot when shims are installed, it is because the shims are causing the carrier oring to be close to the vent hole when the bolt resets and allowing the residual pressure to dissipate faster. Any deviation in wear will cause your system to start leaking due to the vent hole being very close to the sealing edge of the oring.

                    The tiny leak is normal due to the low pressure left in the chamber after a shot. It isn't a high enough pressure to push the oring with enough force to tighten its grip on the bolt stem in a timely manner. Once you release the trigger the higher pressure air seats the oring and the leak immediately goes away.
                    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                    Comment

                    • kcombs9
                      Registered User
                      • Sep 2006
                      • 908

                      #25
                      Athomas is right, shims should only be added if the bolt hits a ball before its in the breach and wont reset and fire again.

                      to test this stick a squeegee into the breach from the front of the body part way, don't put it right up to the bolt, about 1/2-2/3 way in

                      Fire, if the bolt cuffs and resets your good, if it wont reset add a shim.

                      Springs are for soft or harder paint, I prefer the red spring for most the paint I shoot.

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