Pneumag trigger rod setup

[SouthMcSuck]

As per my previous threads, I'm making a pneumag. This is just another question of the many I have. I have a Logic UMF frame and have recently done some cutting to fit an LPR in the grip. Where I'm at now is how I'm going to get the trigger rod to work and what would be good to use for a rod? I'm trying to get as light a trigger pull as possible so I can walk my marker when its finished.

I'm looking at my trigger and see it has two set screws in it, a larger one and a smaller one. Should my trigger rod make contact with one of these set screws?

My kit came with a nylon tipped set screw but I'm not 100% where I should use this in my build. I have a feeling it will go in my trigger in place of one of the current set screws.

[knownothingmags]

As per my previous threads, I'm making a pneumag. This is just another question of the many I have. I have a Logic UMF frame and have recently done some cutting to fit an LPR in the grip. Where I'm at now is how I'm going to get the trigger rod to work and what would be good to use for a rod? I'm trying to get as light a trigger pull as possible so I can walk my marker when its finished.

I'm looking at my trigger and see it has two set screws in it, a larger one and a smaller one. Should my trigger rod make contact with one of these set screws?

My kit came with a nylon tipped set screw but I'm not 100% where I should use this in my build. I have a feeling it will go in my trigger in place of one of the current set screws.

current pics would help wiht the setup you want, this will help anyone with the rod, trigger, pneumatic setup you want.

pm, or others for mor questions.

many shoudl hit your thread though,

thankyou,
KNM.

[SouthMcSuck]

Thanks. Ill get some pics up in the morning. I read some other threads a little bit ago and have a better idea of what I need to do but I still want other opinions and advice.

[SouthMcSuck]

Ok heres some pics for reference.

[Spider-TW]

That trigger is made to trap the end of the rod in the top hole and use the top screw to adjust the gap (between the rod and the trigger). The bottom screw is made to be the over-travel stop.

If you can find a way to trap your rod in the same space where the original rod goes, having those screws where they are would work out very nice. A piece of square bar with a channel in it for the rod could be set screwed or loctited into the gap in the frame, channel facing down. Anything similar would work, but keep in mind anodizing, if you are ever going there.

[SouthMcSuck]

Ahh so the rod should be hitting more towards the top screw and not the bottom? Thats what had me confused bc I read that the rod should be more towards the top. I thought this just meant the top of the msv lever bc there wasnt any specification where the ideal spot to hit the trigger was. That helps out, thanks.

I really like that square bar with a channel idea bc that would keep me from having to drill into my frame more. Thanks for the idea dude, Ill definitely give that a try.

So this is essentially where id want my trigger rod to contact my lever and trigger?

[knownothingmags]

you can also instead of usin the screw in the rammer you can use lukes, ss rams.

[SouthMcSuck]

My kit already came with the correct ram so I didnt have to modify mine for it to work.

[Spider-TW]

So this is essentially where id want my trigger rod to contact my lever and trigger?

That would work; you see some like that. I like the rod to be closer to horizontal, but I'm not sure what kind of space you have there. Larger angles mean longer trigger travel with less force, which you don't need. You'll get better reset of the msv if you can keep things mostly perpendicular. It would be nice if you could get the end of the rod into that top set screw pocket, so that you could use the set screw to set your msv actuation point.

If you go low on the trigger, you loose leverage with your top finger and break even with your bottom finger. With both fingers below the point where the rod hits, the difference is not as great. I went low on my first try and didn't like it, trigger pull-wise. The reset on the msv was good though.

You can shorten the msv lever (or just hit it lower) and still have a very good trigger pull. Lower on the lever and lower on the trigger means shorter trigger travel as well.

If yours matches that pic, I would shorten the msv lever to clear the ram and see if the rod will go straight across and still hit it right. If you end up at the top of the trigger and the lever like shown, you will want a magnet mod kit for sure.

[Flatliner333]

( OP ) SouthMcSuck, do you mind if I ask a question here also that I have been wondering about? I have been thinking of an alternative way to set up the trigger rod and want to get some feedback as well. I dont want to hijack your thread but thought this might make for a very light and responsive trigger pull.

[SouthMcSuck]

I did go with a horizontal setup. I just used that pic as an example as where the rod should contact that trigger and lever.

I made some nice progress tonight. I went with your idea of having the rod set in the groove of the set screw Spider. Works nicely. Still need to find a way to actually keep it in place b/c right now, I just have it sitting on the area between the trigger and lever. I just used an old allen key for the trigger rod. It still needs trimmed down slightly b/c you'll see in the pics its too long right now.

Here's some pics of what I was able to get done tonight. Yes, my logic frame looks rough, thats from my novice dremeling skills lol. I'm not too worried about it though b/c most of that will be covered by grips.