gun to fast

[Xris28]

my mag has xvalve with ult but shoots rapid fire when trigger is pressed the xvalve has 3 shims and ult has none i want to make it so i can walk the trigger. Can anyone help with tunning

[OPBN]

Take the shims out of the Level X, tune it and try again. Also, measure your on/off pin to see what length it is.

[Xris28]

Take the shims out of the Level X, tune it and try again. Also, measure your on/off pin to see what length it is.

How do you tune it

[Xris28]

How do you tune it

You mean the trigger arm

[need4reebs]

check out these threads for info:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=43538

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=96538

also check your sear? check the reg pin o-rings? maybe post pics of your set up? and/or your Mag set up?

[Freedy500]

maybe your pin is short?

[OPBN]

You mean the trigger arm

You shouldnt have to have shims in your level X. Take the shims out of it and go through the steps to properly tune the Level X. Once you have done that, retune the ULT.

You mention walking the trigger. What frame do you have? Does it have trigger stops? Some frames are easier to get walkable than others, but even then, a ULT is not typically going to be as walkable as an electro trigger.

[Spider-TW]

Sounds like pics would be best.

While the level 10 probably doesn't need shims, it shouldn't be causing excessive rapid fire.

Take all of the shims out of the ULT as well.

Besides OPBN's questions above, what kind of air tank are you using?

[need4reebs]

maybe your pin is short?

arent the ULT's the same size pin? and the ULT shims are what makes the ULT pin shorter or longer depending if you are adding or taking shims out?

[OPBN]

arent the ULT's the same size pin? and the ULT shims are what makes the ULT pin shorter or longer depending if you are adding or taking shims out?

Any pin can be shortened. Unless it came from the factory, I would check it just to be sure.

While the level 10 probably doesn't need shims, it shouldn't be causing excessive rapid fire.

Agreed, but figured it helps to start with everything tuned correctly and then go from there.

[GEE TEE]

If you want a reliably walkable mag trigger you need to install an EP conversion. The mechanical RT and ULT effect triggers are not really engineered for this. The reactive bounce effect combined with higher input pressure is designed to give a burst fire mode similar to full auto.

[Lohman446]

If you want a reliably walkable mag trigger you need to install an EP conversion. The mechanical RT and ULT effect triggers are not really engineered for this. The reactive bounce effect combined with higher input pressure is designed to give a burst fire mode similar to full auto.

I do not think that is what they were designed to do. They were designed to give you the quickest ASTM compliant (one shot / one pull) trigger possible. They may or may not have failed but the intent did not have to do with burst modes.

[GEE TEE]

But the simple fact is it's practically impossible to single shot an RT, especially on a ULT on/off at 1100+psi. You would have to drop shims out of the ULT or reduce pressure to reliably single shot.

Hence my burst fire comment

[Spider-TW]

But the simple fact is it's practically impossible to single shot an RT, especially on a ULT on/off at 1100+psi. You would have to drop shims out of the ULT or reduce pressure to reliably single shot.

Hence my burst fire comment

You do have to hang on tight to get a single out of 1100. But 850-950 is very playable as single shot or RT, and the pressure reduction isn't hard on most regs that can run 1100.

Either way, our OP may have wandered off.