Sydermag with a VS1 frame ??

[*c-ro*]

The clapper is the vs series actuates upward, unlike the esp e-frame that actuates forward and there is enough room to flip the clapper because the foregrip would cause me to cut the trigger area nearly in half, ive done searches and no luck for finding one done with the VS frame

[Cokrkilr]

So the clapper trips up... just a random spitball not looking at the frame or any pics idea.....

What if you cut the sear arm in half and got the bottom welded back on in an L shape. Then used the already cut and useless trigger pin as the link between the clapper/ sear. That would utilize the upward motion of the clapper and modify the sear to allow that type of actuation...

Here is a ghetto visualization:

--L-- sear
l sear rod
[] clapper


You may have to drill an indent in the clapper for the rod to seat in, or permanently mount the rod in a certain position somehow... but its a possibility. Now the question is, is the clapper strong enough to trip that?

Sorry if the illustration doesn't line up, it did when I wrote it

[*c-ro*]

because the location of the sear in the spider frame is to far up to meet the back of the automag sear to make the rear of the mag sear to go up .. and there isnt enough room in the spyder frame to move the sear ... if i did re configure the sear, the angle would be so great, i highly doubt the clapper would have the power to trip the sear ... i got an older frame already ... so its gonna be ok

[*c-ro*]

and the sear in the VS frames is not an L sear ... it looks pretty much like a cocker sear and operates the same way

[Cokrkilr]

Oh, I was more referring to the automag sear having a direct link to the clapper, like how a real automag electric frame works.... remove the spyder sear altogether

[*c-ro*]

yeah, i thought about it, but u dont have room to move the frame up that far, i would have to cut the trigger area almost in half if i flipped the noid

[Cokrkilr]

We are on two different planets talking about this :)

[luke]

The Mokal Fokus has the solenoid mounted in the same way as the VS1, I was doing fliped 'noid mods on these back in the day.

[Flatliner333]

Did you get this working ? I have built two Mags with Spyder electronics and noids. Both my noids are verticle and push upwards on the back of a modified Mag sear.

[Spiritchaser]

Out of curiosity: how many shots do you get from a 9v with a setup like that?

[warchild69]

Not to thread jack, but I have an issue with a spydermag grip I built. It seems my noid doesn't have the power to trip the sear in my mag. Initially I tried it in my spyder, and it wouldn't trip the sear in that, so I figured I'd do the machine work on it, then get the electronics figure out when the time came.

Fast foreword to when the time came to assemble, I tried it again and barely enough force to move the sear, so I tried different batteries, a new capacitor, even a working noid from a friends gun, still not enough power to trip it. I'm at a loss here. Anyone have any suggestions?

Sent from my iPhone using pure magic

[Flatliner333]

What valve and on/off are you using ?

[Flatliner333]

Spirit if your question was for me... I havent really counted...sorry I just dont play enough anymore.

[Cokrkilr]

warchild, to go along with what flatliner was getting at. If you are using the stock classic on off that is most likely your problem. Frames like the Hyperframe or booh yaah come with a new on off that uses emag style pins, which reduces the force to activate the trigger/on off.

This is most likely your problem, if you have a different on off from the classic then it is probably just too weak of a clapper.

here are on offs for reference:
left classic, middle hyper/booh yaah, right x valve style

[warchild69]

Oops, forgot that, classic valve, ult on/off, but I also tried my xvalve with the ult in it and still no go.

Sent from my iPhone using pure magic