How to repair emag regulator valve pin assembly?

[halB]

For those following this saga, I am now working on the valve. I have replaced all the bad o rings, but I have no idea what I replace on the regulator valve pin assembly.

http://www.tunamart.com/index.php?c=39&p=115

Where that white part is, on my gun there are three different discs, seemingly of different materials. They are all gummy and ruined.

Is there a part I can pick up so I don't have to buy the whole thing? Seems kind of wasteful if I can't throw something on there.

[athomas]

The two outside ones are urethane orings that come in the oring kit. The middle one is a plastic split washer that separates the orings.

[halB]

Do you know what size those o rings are?

[halB]

Figure they're 006. I can either use butyl or viton. Going with butyl right now.

The real question is how I remove that little ring at the back end of the assembly. I need to do that to take the washer off and put the first one on.

BTW: Thank you athomas. My orings had melted into such a mess that even after messing with orings all day long, I didn't recognize these things as orings! The whole mess looked like some proprietary piece.

[halB]

Well, I got them on by squeezing the one over the washer with a pick and a toothpick.

However, I still have a catastrophic leak from the reg vent hole. I've already replaced the sear piston o ring, and all the o rings on the regulator valve piston assembly.

[Justus]

Does the leak stop if you back off the velocity? If so, your regulator piston assembly may need replacing.

[halB]

Should;ve mentioned: i have backed out the velocity until the o ring is showing. Velocity is definitely at a minimum - at least that's what i think me seeing the o ring is.

[athomas]

Is the leak out the back of the adjuster or out the side vent hole?

[halB]

The vent hole in the regulator portion.

[Cokrkilr]

I thought the side vent hole was a leaky reg seat?

[athomas]

A leak out the side hole on the back half of the regulator is a leaky oring around the regulator piston.

A leak out the back is a leaky regulator seat oring.

A leak out the side of the valve in the front half, is one of the two orings separated by the split washer on the regulator valve pin assembly.

[halB]

Well mccarter says they're supposed to be 006. Put 006 viton on there, still have this catastrophic leak.

At least I figured the plastic washer is split so you can take it off and put the inner o ring on easily.

[halB]

Well, I turned the velocity up, that turned it from a catastrophic leak to a very fast leak. So that's improvement.

Here are some weird things. First, if I turn the air on it seals, there's no leak, then one second later the leak starts.

Second, the gun holds air after I'm done shooting it and have turned the on/off off. I have to unscrew the tank to vent the air.

Also, sometimes the on off pin on the gun sticks out even after being degassed, and so I have to take the body off. (ULE body, classic rail, intelliframe).

[athomas]

Well mccarter says they're supposed to be 006. Put 006 viton on there, still have this catastrophic leak.

At least I figured the plastic washer is split so you can take it off and put the inner o ring on easily.

I suspect the viton orings are too soft for this location. The have a lower psi rating and a high elongation rating which means they will get distorted easily if they don't have the proper backing. The urethane orings can withstand higher pressures on their own without distorting.

The valve will hold air after you turn off the ASA. There's no place for it to go. After the last shot, there wouldn't be enough pressure to push the level 10 bolt forward to release the remaining air.

If the on-off pin sticks out, you can usually get the valve out by holding the trigger in while pulling the valve out the back. This will push the pin far enough into the on-off assembly to clear the body.

[halB]

So I have to have polyurethane o rings for this?