Slowing down an X Valve

[TimmyJay]

I have an X valve coming my way and I want to eliminate the RTing effect. I am going to be running lvl 7. I may get a cap made for the X, but until then what do I need to do? Where should I start with my adjustable tank output pressure etc. It is coming with the RT on/off.

I think it should be simple, but I tend to overthink things...and I am cheap :)

[captian pinky]

i would put new on/off orings, measure the on/off pin length. thats at least a start

[sQuidvision]

well the ULT was designed to eliminate the rt effect and only costs $30ish bucks. other than that a longer on/off pin and or a lower (but not too low!) tank output and that should get you the desired effect. Also single trigger frames tend to be harder to RT with.

[Cokrkilr]

I was going to say what squid said almost exactly... you could also pneu it for about the same cost as gettin a decent single trigger frame, with just enough tinker to wet your whistle. That's 100% getting rid of it, unless you turn the lpr down for some full auto :)

[athomas]

Since you are using an adjustable tank and a level 7 bolt, you can lower the tank output pressure to about 750psi and reduce the RT effect.

[halB]

I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.

[renie]

I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.

Really I get 26 bps with my ULT installed :) :)

[BLachance75]

I would suggest pneuing it. The other option is to lower your tank output pressure.

Personally I find it easier to RT holding higher up on a double trigger, about where your top finger would be. So I'm not sure that getting a single trigger frame would help that much.

[sQuidvision]

I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.

Really I get 26 bps with my ULT installed :) :)

the high rates of fire associated with the ULT are attained by shimming the on/off assembly and effectively shortening the pin length. If you do not want any RT effect simply remove the shims from your ULT.

[TimmyJay]

Can I Pneu it?

[Cokrkilr]

Depends on how much time you'd wanna put into it. I didn't know it was that frame.

It would be super tight in there but you may get away with using the.... I forgot the name.... not the msv2, but the smaller 3 way valve? MAP3 keeps coming to mind but I don't think that's it lol.

Edit, its SMAV-3

[Jaccen]

Give it to me and I'll give you a Classic valve.........for free!

[TimmyJay]

Thats all it is worth to you...a $50 classic valve? It would be better left on a cocker.

[TimmyJay]

Seriously though...

I would be willing to consider a deal with an EXPERT in the Pneu conversion. Hit me up with a PM if you have the proper milling and pneumatic background. I am not looking for a dremel tool botch job. I would like to complete any milling before sending these off for an anno.

[TimmyJay]

So I got a body and the X valve. I am using my lvl7 ANS bolt and powertube bits from my classic valve and it is tight.

I am guessing that I need a bigger powertube spacer. I want to say it had a 220 on it? It worked great with my classic valve, but so tight that I get bolt stick.

I slid only the powertube tip on the bolt and it got stuck coming off. Any advice?