RT classic body compatability question

[blackdeath1k]

I've got a pro sitting here. That has basic half al half ss valve. Same as the old emags. And I have my personal baby. My classic RT. If it were me. I'd chuck the valve in a lathe and turn it down to automagrt spec. Mill the body to accept the side air inlet. And call it a day. But me. I like my banjo bolt.

Back parts all interchange. Granted. There could be an al quality difference. But I'm betting its the same. And a better kicker. And the easiest way to pull this off. Get a back regulator half off an classic rt. And screw it on the front half of the retro or emag setup. Yes I just got done testing if this worked. That way all you have to turn down is the front ss section.

[OPBN]

But what about then inlet where the banjo fitting goes it would leak out of there.

Red loctite and a grub screw.

[big poppa fluff]

I've got a pro sitting here. That has basic half al half ss valve. Same as the old emags. And I have my personal baby. My classic RT. If it were me. I'd chuck the valve in a lathe and turn it down to automagrt spec. Mill the body to accept the side air inlet. And call it a day. But me. I like my banjo bolt.

Back parts all interchange. Granted. There could be an al quality difference. But I'm betting its the same. And a better kicker. And the easiest way to pull this off. Get a back regulator half off an classic rt. And screw it on the front half of the retro or emag setup. Yes I just got done testing if this worked. That way all you have to turn down is the front ss section.

So your pretty sure if I turn it down i won't kill my self?... Like how sure? I'm good with anything over 75%

[dboggs79]

If interests you at all, I'm currently working on gathering pieces for a build. I'll be milling a rail for a Classic RT. Granted, it will still use a banjo bolt. But, it will do away with what I think is a hideous stock rail. No more unnecessary inlet ports cluttering things up. And will be considerably lighter to boot. I'm hoping to have all the parts and atleast a functioning rail in maybe two weeks. May take me longer to finish up cosmetic touches.

[blackdeath1k]

So your pretty sure if I turn it down i won't kill my self?... Like how sure? I'm good with anything over 75%

All internals swap out. So they did not change anything physically other that the outside OD. The reg body even swaps out. That said they could have changed al spec. 6000 instead of 7000 ect. But I'm betting they didn't change anything other than the od. Standard agd overkill. Nothing wrong with that. And the front half is one giant chunk of ss. Me. If I was doing this. If I already own a valve. I'd turn it down. If I didn't I'd try and find a pro front half. And a classic back half. That way the field strip pin is in the correct spot for the classic body. Vs where it is on a pro. Emag. X. Classic valve. Ect.

[need4reebs]

Somebody on this forum has to know the different thicknesses of a RT classic valve and emag valve!

take both valves to your machinist. they can measure both right there. even take your rt classic body with you to help explain wat your trying to do?

[blackdeath1k]

I'll put a mic on the valve when I get home to give you an OD if your needing it. Just small enough to slip in the rt body would be my ticket though.

[Flatliner333]

Why not get one of xmagterrors : Aluminum ,centerfeed, cocker threaded, E mag valve compatable, RT bodies ?

[blackdeath1k]

Flatliner. He already answered that one. Like me he prefers the look of the full classic rt body that covers the valve. But he doesn't want the banjo setup that goes with it.

[Flatliner333]

ooooh.....nevermind... me=

[need4reebs]

I'll put a mic on the valve when I get home to give you an OD if your needing it. Just small enough to slip in the rt body would be my ticket though.

how thick is the back end of the RT classic body? can any material be removed from there to make it so a regular valve will work? the OP said only 1/32" needs to be taken off of a regular valve for it to fit?

[blackdeath1k]

A rt classic body is basically identical to all other mag body's but longer. So no. Drilling out the body for a classic is not an option. 1/32? That doesn't sound right at all to me. I could be wrong though. As stated. When I get home from work I will put my mic on it. I'll post spec of each then.

[blackdeath1k]

OK. As promised

Back half OD difference is .1255

Classic rt valve back half OD - 0.996
Classic rt main body OD - 1.1625
Classic rt main body ID - 1.0165

RTPro valve back half OD - 1.1215
RTPro main body OD - 1.1155
RTPro main body ID - 1.0305

Now for grins.
Classic minimag valve OD - 1.1260
Classic minimag main body OD - 1.1255
Classic minimag main body ID - 1.0500

[need4reebs]

OK. As promised

Back half OD difference is .1255

Classic rt valve back half OD - 0.996
Classic rt main body OD - 1.1625
Classic rt main body ID - 1.0165

RTPro valve back half OD - 1.1215
RTPro main body OD - 1.1155
RTPro main body ID - 1.0305

Now for grins.
Classic minimag valve OD - 1.1260
Classic minimag main body OD - 1.1255
Classic minimag main body ID - 1.0500

so by your numbers the rt classic body is bigger than the other bodies...looking at the OD numbers?

[blackdeath1k]

Barely. But yes. All the body's had variances also. I've seen a few classic rt main body's cut to be used with RTPro valves. Everything matched up and worked. I'd venture to say that is tolerances in the ss tube.

And for the general public standpoint I stand with my statement that they are basically identical. All parts interchange as far as fitment goes. All classic rt main body's will fit any other mag rail given the front mounting body stud modification or rail mod for it. Not everyone has machinist tools to check spec on stuff. And deff not tools that have to be calibrated yearly.