Basicly Title. Powers up fine and can hear the solenoid going when pulling the trigger, but 98% of the time the marker doesn't fire. Not sure what happened between last week and now that would cause it.
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1. Make sure the battery is charged.
2. With the marker degassed, make sure the solenoid slides freely when the gun is tipped back and forth. If not, you'll need to straighten it out.
Kinda new to e/x-mags myself, so that's all I have for now.Last of the Salzburg Clan -
Definitely a sear geometry problem, everything works with a sheet of paper as a spacer between the lower and rail. Don't suppose there is a guide for adjusting an emag sear? Should get me through the game tomorrow, but I'de like to fix it properly.Comment
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Did your lowers come off of a PTP EMAG or original AGD Emag? I have a set of lowers that came off of a PTP EMAG and the sear bushing is backwards when compared to my stock EMAG lowers. If your lowers came off of a PTP EMAG, attaching them to an EMAG rail using the sear axle pin will cause the sear to bind up preventing the solenoid from cycling properly.
I just discovered this the other night while tinkering with this new set of lowers I bought, but I have Tunaman shipping me a solenoid+sear assembly tuned to AGD specifications it should be here next week. I'll keep you posted.Comment
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It's either in the xmag manual (airgun.com) or xmod manual (niedtech.com) for straightening out the sear.
If you're talking about trigger rod length, that's in the xmod manual for the factory setting. However, it's really a personal preference, especially on an emag, because it may need to be adjusted based on how you like your electronic trigger. Basically, you don't want the trigger rod hitting the back of the trigger when firing in e mode.Last of the Salzburg ClanComment
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Pretty sure its a newer AGD Emag lower. Was working properly up until a week ago when I dropped it jumping a bunker. Seems to be working fine now with a little spacer between the lower and rail. Sear seems to be binding up without the spacer after screwing in the sear pin. Taking a look at the manuals now.Comment
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A proper length solenoid plunger will probably help your issue. If the solenoid plunder is too short, the solenoid won't develop enough power to pull the sear. The tip of the plunger to the tip of the clevis should be 3.005". If you don't have a set of calipers, adjust the plunger length so that the sear just clears the bolt (with a tiny bit extra to spare) when the plunger is all the way inside the solenoid. This will give you maximum power.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Check that something didn't get knocked out of whack. The plunger rod is probably bent.Originally posted by Ailia View PostExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Seems straight, but not completely sure since I don't have a known flat surface to test it on here at home. The sear was always a little sticky from when I got it, though it fired fine. With the spacer in its the smoothest its ever been, freely floats around as you rotate it. Ill have to grab my calipers from work on Tuesday so I can get it adjusted.Comment
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Do you have a mirror? Any piece of glass will probably be flat.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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A few months back when I got my first emag it was doing about the same so what I found was wrong with it was the magnets in the trigger was not adjusted right so maybe toy with those for a little bitComment
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