Nylon set screws

[OPBN]

Do Nylon set screws tend to back out less than metal ones? I know from a previous thread purple Loctite or pipe dope were recommended for metal ones, but thinking if the nylon set enough I would rather use them then fiddle with Loctite.

I think I found a source for them, but looks like they come in packs of $50, not big issue. Might pop into my local hardware store and see if they have them individually.

Any constructive help would be appreciated.

[Justus]

You mean you found where the entire set screw is made from nylon? I've only seen the nylon-tipped version.

[OPBN]

You mean you found where the entire set screw is made from nylon? I've only seen the nylon-tipped version.

Yes. Appears so. I'll pull the link back up when I get home and double check.

[OPBN]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/socket-set-screws/screws/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8n9Z1z0o42f

These are the ones I found. Can't remember if mine are 8/32 or 6/32.

Guessing no one has tried them yet.

Reebs, I already deleted the first post. Walk away.

[Nobody]

they shouldn't vibrate out, but they would be less sturdy in some applications. for something like a trigger stop, so as to not mar a gun's anno, go for it. if not, use a nylon tipped screw.

[OPBN]

they shouldn't vibrate out, but they would be less sturdy in some applications. for something like a trigger stop, so as to not mar a gun's anno, go for it. if not, use a nylon tipped screw.

For the specific use I have in mind it is more for vibration than ano issues as both the trigger and frame are currently raw. But seems like the metal set screws I am using keep working their way in/out and was thinking the nylon would eliminate that. Also, if/when I did anodize, powdercoat or whatever, they wouldn't mar the finish at that time. But right now the main goal is to stop them from creeping.

[OPBN]

i didnt hear a sorry from ya? wats up? or is deleting something tha way you apologize?

Seriously?

[athomas]

Quite often, generic screws have a smaller thread. That way they fit most nuts and tapped holes, even ones that have threads that are damaged or dirty. The amount of play is especially noticed when screwed into a generic loose threaded hole.

The fit of the threads determine whether the screw will back out. If the nylon threads are just as loose as the metal threads, then they will back out too. The secret is to find screw threads that are oversized for the hole threads. That way, the nylon ones can be squeezed into the tight threads and still be adjusted easily. Metal screws cannot be forced into threads that are too small, but the proper fit can be very tight.

[OPBN]

Quite often, generic screws have a smaller thread. That way they fit most nuts and tapped holes, even ones that have threads that are damaged or dirty. The amount of play is especially noticed when screwed into a generic loose threaded hole.

The fit of the threads determine whether the screw will back out. If the nylon threads are just as loose as the metal threads, then they will back out too. The secret is to find screw threads that are oversized for the hole threads. That way, the nylon ones can be squeezed into the tight threads and still be adjusted easily. Metal screws cannot be forced into threads that are too small, but the proper fit can be very tight.

My partial thought was that the nylon set screws would create slightly more friction. Plastic on metal versus metal on metal. Granted if they are ridiculously loose than yeah, it won't make a difference. I figure for $10 or so, it's worth a shot. Thanks for the input.

[blackdeath1k]

I use nylon bolts and stuff at work. They don't ever seam to have any more friction than metal. They just stretch and break easier.

[captian pinky]

id rather use nylon tipped screws with loctite if its an option. on some of my mag site rails i used a nylon one and put a metal one right on top of it to keep it from backing out.