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The first video is the gun firing with paint and the second video is the gun firing without paint.Comment
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Is your rail bushing in place?
It still sounds like an on-off issue. If you haven't actually changed the on-off orings, do it next before any other attempts to fix it.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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To get my E-Mag on\off to work correctly, I had to remove that black o-ring, and replace the on\off with an RT on\off with a .750 pin. I put the white o-ring into the hole, where the black one was. Now it's one of my best valves, that never gives me any problems.Comment
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you may have 2 problems at once
for one, your on\off pin could be too short, are you sure that it's really .753? did you calibrate the calipers? sometimes I throw in my stock E-Mag pin into the on\off when I'm bored, and this is what happens, that pin is too small, or your somehow, your trigger rod changed size, you can check the trigger rod size with your calipers as well, it should be stock, but I forget what the stock size is, I wrote it on a box somewhere, there is some rule about the distance between your trigger, and the trigger rod, should be the width of credit card thickness, legend has it - ............also, problem 2, if you're running a level 10, change the white o-ring inside the brass, Power Tube, carrier sizer piece, to make it tighter, or change the carrier for a tighter fit, for me a loose carrier causes uncontrollableness and leaking, and changing it will resume control,, I do all this, or just change the white o-ring on the on\off , sometimes that fixes everything as well
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The use of the black quad oring allows you to use a pin that is 0.013" shorter. because the lower sealing edge is that much farther down than the standard round urethane oring that has the sealing edge in the middle.
djinnform is correct, you may have two problems happening at the same time. However, a level 10 with a loose carrier will not cause uncontrollable action. If using a tighter carrier reduces the uncontrollable action, then that problem is being caused somewhere else and is just being covered up by using a tighter carrier/oring size. You always want the carrier size that is as large as you can get without producing any leaks. That reduces the bolt friction to as low a value as you can get. That way, only the bolt spring has any affect on the force required to push the bolt forward.
In the video, you hear a tiny bit of leaking when the gun is at rest. That is most likely your level 10 bolt venting out the front. Since it is reset, that means it is sitting too far forward which indicates that you have shims installed in your powertube, you are missing your rail spacer, or your sear is worn outExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Well just now getting back to looking into my issue. I calibrated my calipers and took some more measurements.Classic_onoffpin.jpg
The first picture is of a classic on/off pin.
Emag_onoffpin.jpg
This is my emag on/off pin.
Sear_wEmag.jpg
This is a picture of the trigger rod with the emag valve. There is not a credit card gap and I believe this is due to the on/off pin pushing down on the sear and pushing the trigger rod further forward. It does not do this on my classic valve. Is my analysis correct?
With the little amount of air I had left (1100psi) I tested it again after adding some oil. It is odd that it shoots different when their is paint and when there is no paint. This leads me to believe that It is probably an o-ring issue as several of you have suggested. The reason for this is because I have not changed anything since I have purchased this valve. However the shooting dynamics have greatly changed.Comment
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It looks like an aloha mag? And if so that means it only will work in HawaiiComment
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The trigger rod isn't affected by the on-off pin length except if it can't generate enough force to fully rotate the sear assembly. The sear rotates forward and stops when the knob on the top of the sear, between the sear pin and the sear tip, makes contact with the bottom of the body. When the sear is fully reset, and the trigger is held against the safety (with the safety on), you should have a credit card gap between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod. Both the classic valve and the emag valve should cause the same rotation regardless of pin used.
The change in residual chamber pressure affects how reactive the valve is. When fired without paint, the chamber completely empties so there is a lot of pressure differential between the incoming tank pressure and zero chamber pressure. When fired with paint, not all of the air pressure leaves the chamber before the bolt resets. Therefore the pressure differential is less between the incoming tank pressure and the remaining chamber pressure. The higher differential pressure for an empty chamber gives a larger volume of incoming air pushing the trigger back with more sustained force which translates into a more reactive trigger.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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A quick test would be to install the classic on-off assembly into the emag valve and try it. If it works, then you know the emag on-off is the problem and not some other part of the valve.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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This was from today. I just put a quad o-ring in and oiled the on/off and power tube. This has the lvl10. Any thoughts to what my problem is??https://ULE automag leak: [url]http:...[/url]Comment
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Any leak from the on-off that you can hear , is caused by one of the bottom orings, not the top ones. If you hear a leak from the on-off area, it is more likely to be air leaking from the level 10 than air from the on-off.
From your video, it appears that your issue is more level 10 related than on-off related. I am sure you did this, but make sure your shims are removed from the powertube.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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