Efficiency Insert, low chrono and chomping paint

[djinnform]

I tried out my efficiency insert today, in my Classic Valve w Level X for the first time. It was hard to get the Chrono up past 260, at full turn to the right. I was also breaking paint. Do I need a different spring. What spring or changes do I need to make with the efficiency insert installed to Chrono past 275?

[BTAutoMag]

Lvl 10 gold spring?

[TyeStick]

If you were trying the gold spring, try swapping it out for the red spring.
As for ball breakage, check your detents and make sure your ball detents aren't gummed up and are functioning properly. If you're using a force-fed loader, make sure the batteries are fresh.

I also found this, copied and posted from another thread that 'athomas' commented in.
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*Gold is the standard short spring that works for all combinations plus lower velocity.

The red spring is referred to as the middle spring. It is longer than the gold spring and is stiffer at the same amount of compression compared to the gold spring which makes the bolt softer on paint. Most of the time it can be used as is for good level 10 performance when operating at about 280fps.

The silver spring is both longer and stiffer and can typically only be used if it is clipped on one end to allow it to be used within a usable velocity range.*

[athomas]

When you are using the efficiency insert, you are decreasing the chamber size requiring an increase in the chamber pressure to maintain velocity. That increase in pressure will cause all of the bolt springs to be less effective at preventing chops. However, unless you are having feed issues, then I doubt you are chopping paint. It is more likely a barrel break issue caused by the bolt jamming a ball into a barrel that is too tight for it. It could also be caused by a faster bolt cycle clipping the next ball in the stack and fracturing it so that it busts as it is being shot on the next cycle. The level 10 can help with this.

If you can't get your mag up to a working velocity, you may need to shim your velocity adjuster to allow you to put more pressure on the spring stack.

[djinnform]

Great idea. Where does the shim go exactly for the velocity adjuster? I'm using the thumb knob. Is it the same shim that is used for the level 10 and ULT?

I should have also tried it with my 1200 output tank. I think I had my 900 a that moment. Thank you.

When you are using the efficiency insert, you are decreasing the chamber size requiring an increase in the chamber pressure to maintain velocity. That increase in pressure will cause all of the bolt springs to be less effective at preventing chops. However, unless you are having feed issues, then I doubt you are chopping paint. It is more likely a barrel break issue caused by the bolt jamming a ball into a barrel that is too tight for it. It could also be caused by a faster bolt cycle clipping the next ball in the stack and fracturing it so that it busts as it is being shot on the next cycle. The level 10 can help with this.

If you can't get your mag up to a working velocity, you may need to shim your velocity adjuster to allow you to put more pressure on the spring stack.

[Cyco-Dude]

If you can't get your mag up to a working velocity, you may need to shim your velocity adjuster to allow you to put more pressure on the spring stack.

or, he could just remove the "efficiency" insert.

Great idea. Where does the shim go exactly for the velocity adjuster?

between the spring stack and the adjustment knob.

[athomas]

The thumb knobs are notorious for being too short to reach higher velocities. Find a couple of washers that will fit inside the thumb adjuster. They will add thickness to the back and the hole in the washer will still allow the regulator piston assembly pressure relief to work properly. Stainless washers are ideal because they won't rust.