AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
i bought a gforce frame and the guy said either an rt or ult on off would be better for it. i unfortunately deleted his pm. could somebody confirm which is best?
Why always RT? Is it the reactivity that helps on some level?
I reasoned ULT would be better cause the force required to trip it would be less. But I have no experience of pneumags so I don't really know. I'm just honestly curious to learn.
Why always RT? Is it the reactivity that helps on some level?
I reasoned ULT would be better cause the force required to trip it would be less. But I have no experience of pneumags so I don't really know. I'm just honestly curious to learn.
I read elsewhere that using a ult on a pneumag would allow one to use a lower lpr pressure. I, too, have zero experience with pneumags but am preparing for my first build soon. Please elucidate.
I'm in no way arguing, but how does that ^^^ make sense? In a Pneumag, the on/off whether ULT or RT is only returning the sear vs returning the sear and trigger on a strictly Mech set up isn't it? I only tried a ULT on a pneud classic which was an epic fail, but assumed it was due to it being a Classic vs RT/X valve. I mean the sear in a Pneu doesn't push the ram back does it?
I'm in no way arguing, but how does that ^^^ make sense? In a Pneumag, the on/off whether ULT or RT is only returning the sear vs returning the sear and trigger on a strictly Mech set up isn't it? I only tried a ULT on a pneud classic which was an epic fail, but assumed it was due to it being a Classic vs RT/X valve. I mean the sear in a Pneu doesn't push the ram back does it?
Pneumags are a bit chuffy in the first place. As they get up to speed, the trigger release gets critical as the ram may not snap back fast enough. An RT on/off will help stuff the ram back, whereas a ULT will play along and try to hangup.
To make one work, you need to tune the ULT, and a qev might help, which is something that we've bypassed with the RT on/off. If you run lower LPR pressure, make sure your reg has good response at that setting ( like a micro rock).. I had a tickler that wouldn't work well at low pressure, so i got nothing from using a ULT. Also, light pressures slow the return of the fabco 3-way. When you can slap together and tune a pneumag with a ULT and a new level 10 bolt all at once, you have certainly passed a test.
It can be done, but it's not worth much and adds unnecessary complexity.
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It's one of those things, like the ULT in the classic, just say "no".
I have a M90 pneumag set-up by Tuna, and it works great with a classic valve with the classic on\off. I've spent hours doing trail and error with all my valves and on\offs.
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