well I tried replacing the on/off top orings and testing the marker a few times the first time it shot a dumped a little air when gassed up the other 3 times it just fired once so I figured the only thing left to do was to go back and try to replace the reg valve pin part that got into the on/off housing. When pulling the reg valve pin out of the valve it didn't bring the orings with it and they are now wedged down in the valve. I tried carefully removing them with a dental pick but they seem to want stay in there and I'm afraid to use too much force for fear of damaging them or worse the valve itself.
need advice on how to address weird x-valve behavior
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Cyco-Dude
wow, sounds like that valve is in need of a rebuild if they're that stuck! what color are they? if they are a caramel color, they'll probably just break apart. was the c-clip actually missing on the valve pin assembly? it could have been just a spare clip that found it's way into the on/off.well I tried replacing the on/off top orings and testing the marker a few times the first time it shot a dumped a little air when gassed up the other 3 times it just fired once so I figured the only thing left to do was to go back and try to replace the reg valve pin part that got into the on/off housing. When pulling the reg valve pin out of the valve it didn't bring the orings with it and they are now wedged down in the valve. I tried carefully removing them with a dental pick but they seem to want stay in there and I'm afraid to use too much force for fear of damaging them or worse the valve itself.
hmm...try this. take your valve pin, and put the c-clip back in place if it's missing. then, stick it in there and try to "hook" the o-rings and pull them out that way. or if they're old, just break them apart with your o-ring pick and pull the pieces out.Comment
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I figured they got stuck because the clip that found its way in the on/off was supposed to be holding them in place. (perhaps in came loose as I was reinstalling the valve pin the first time after having removed it?) The orings are perfectly fine as far as color goes as they look brand new and well given the valve is only 5 months old they should be that way. I already called the AGD tech line to also get their opinion on this as well, and to find out what the risks are to the valve if I put more effort into trying to get those orings out of there. I already feel that the amount of force I would need to use to get them out with a dental pick could damage the walls of the valve given that I used what I'd consider a moderate level of force to try to get them out and they didn't even budge. I might try fishing them out with the clip and the pin even though I'd assume the clip would have trouble getting past the orings without damaging them or perhaps force them up into the on/off? I'd also have to rearrange the washers on the pin prior to doing this as those came off, but thankfully they didn't get stuck in the valve. I'm just hoping I don't end up having to send it in to have this addressed even though I'd rather do that than take a small chance of permanently damaging the valve.Comment
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Well I managed to get the valve pin orings out of the valve by pulling a bit of string with a knot in it through the on/off housing. I put everything back together and did another round of tests and during all but one of the tests the gun fired once when being aired up. At this point, assuming the consistency issue is history, I'm inclined to just leave everything as is rather then invest a bunch of additional time trying to resolve such a minor issue. Hopefully it doesn't start going full auto when airing up when I up the input pressure here in a few months but if it does I guess I'll just have to decide at that point if I want to start troubleshooting the problem again. I'm probably going to do some chrono tests next weekend and will post another update once I have completed that process.Comment
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Quite a bit going on here, but I think you're close to full resolution.
1. Personally, I would buy a new reg pin valve assembly if yours came apart. If you've reassembled it, and get erratic velocities, it's probably the culprit. If the two orings on it are bad, it could cause a shot on gas up.
2. Leave the new on/off top orings in there, since the old ones could have been damaged by the c-clip. Bad on/off top orings could cause a single shot on air up.
3. Finally, and what I think the problem is, replace oring 20 that sits in the back of the valve in the schematic you linked in your earlier post, regardless of how it looks. A bad oring here can cause a single shot on gas up. athomas mentioned this in the first reply, but I don't see in the thread confirmation that you replaced it.
If 1, 2, and/or 3 fix the issue, I'd tune your Level 10 again according to athomas' guide, just to make sure it's tuned to a functional valve, and not erratic input pressures.
If 1, 2, and/or 3 don't fix the issue, post back. We'll figure it out.Last edited by nak81783; 10-22-2014, 04:19 AM.Last of the Salzburg ClanComment
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