help needed with a NON pneumatic E-build based on ETek2 Frame

[flampaint]

Hi,
I've found tons of info and how-tos on how to build an EP Mag with an ETek2 frame.
I might be able to get my hands on a brand-new and unused ETek2 frame + board BUT I would like to build an E (only electro, so not EP) Mag.
Are there solenoids that'll fit this purpose and if so, is there a how-to somewhere or can someone point me to a place where I can fnd more resources on how to build a purely electro Mag based on an ETek2 frame?
Thanks for any ideas or advice and sorry if this has been asked before - I, for my part, just couldnt find anything.

[flampaint]

just to clarify, as my initial post seems to have had a bit too much irrelevant info :

Just to clarify: I'm looking for an electric solenoid that'll fit in the top part of the etek frame and which also pushes the sear (NOT a solenoid valve which pushes the sear, so no EP mag for me, only E).
Of course, it should be a solenoid which can be hooked up to the existing board or to a virtue board

Anyone know about a Solenoid that would do that job or about a build thread about such a project?

Thanks a lot in advance for any help anyone can provide with this!

As soon as I get this going I will gladly also post pictures of the whole process

[jame4091]

I guess you could try to find a solenoid out of a hyperframe. Not sure if board connections would work.

[flampaint]

Yeah, those big round ones. I have one of those in my DevilMag and I was actually looking to find something a bit les bulky.
I haven't mesaured one yet, but I assume that if I wanted to fit it in an Etek2 Frame I'd have to make some serious space for it (aka cut out entire pieces of the frame) and that's something I'd like to avoid.

I'll keep looking and I'll post it here, should I end up finding something.

Thanks a lot in advance to anyone else who might have any ideas or pointers...

[captian pinky]

i think one of the biggest problems you will run into is the frame you are choosing. there isnt going to be a lot of material to play with as far as clamping that noid in there.

if you change your mind i have a hyperframe that needs some love and would be a solid project.

[flampaint]

i think one of the biggest problems you will run into is the frame you are choosing. there isnt going to be a lot of material to play with as far as clamping that noid in there.

if you change your mind i have a hyperframe that needs some love and would be a solid project.

Thanks, but I'm pretty fixed on this frame beacuse I like its looks (purely subjective, I know).
In terms of clamping it into the frame: I was hoping to find a noid I can "drop" into the frame and then fix it with set screws (obviously having to drill the holes for that myself, of course...)

[bowcycle]

Over here, there are examples of 2 homebrew electro frames with 2 different types of sear activation. Maybe getting creative with your placement will allow you to use a normal mag solenoid (hyperframe, booyah, etc.) without carving up the frame too much.

I haven't seen any threads on how big of a solenoid it has to be to trip a mag sear, but if you're using a ULT'd x-valve, you should be able to go a little smaller than the huge hyperframe noids.

There's also this pic which came up in one of Sk8rMOG's threads:



Think the mag belongs to flatliner, but you're looking at solenoid placement and size.

[flampaint]

Over here, there are examples of 2 homebrew electro frames with 2 different types of sear activation. Maybe getting creative with your placement will allow you to use a normal mag solenoid (hyperframe, booyah, etc.) without carving up the frame too much.

I haven't seen any threads on how big of a solenoid it has to be to trip a mag sear, but if you're using a ULT'd x-valve, you should be able to go a little smaller than the huge hyperframe noids.

There's also this pic which came up in one of Sk8rMOG's threads:

Think the mag belongs to flatliner, but you're looking at solenoid placement and size.

Thanks! Yes, I know those types of solenoids.
I'm looking for something smaller thoug... IMHO and since I'm planning on using a ULT on/off, a smaller 'noid (with not as much "push-power") would probably also work.. the question is where I can find such a noid...

[athomas]

When you check the specs on the solenoid, check the hold force as well. The ULT will allow you to use a solenoid that requires less force when the plunger is at its far distance, but the solenoid still has to hold the on-off in place against a larger force when it is fully engaged as well. If not, the on-off will open as soon as some of the air dumps out of the chamber during a shot. The holding force is usually the largest force for a solenoid, so if the solenoid will pull the on-off from a distance, then it will probably hold it against a much larger force as well, but check to make sure. If the solenoid can't hold the on-off in, the gun will fire but you will wear out your sear in a hurry.

[flampaint]

If the solenoid can't hold the on-off in, the gun will fire but you will wear out your sear in a hurry.

Thanks - that's very valuable info that will most likely save me time. I already found a website which sells all kinds of small noids for industrial uses with many specs to them. http://www.ledex.com/
Any chance you (or anyone else looking at this) knows what the minimum required force (in N - Newton) is for the noid to actually hold the on-off (so my sear won't wear)?

p.s.: I assume you mean the type of waer on the sear (and bolt) which was addressed in this article? (towards the very bottom of the article) http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...gers/cflagmag/

This is going to be fun... (I hope! )

[bowcycle]

tried using my google-fu to find the specs for the hyperframe solenoid, but came up empty.

Sorry, mate. Maybe someone else will have better luck.

[athomas]

p.s.: I assume you mean the type of waer on the sear (and bolt) which was addressed in this article? (towards the very bottom of the article) http://www.warpig.com/paintball/tech...gers/cflagmag/

Yes.

The top of the sear rides on the bottom of the bolt which causes friction and slows down the whole reset action. This causes the tip of the sear to barely catch the bolt when it does come forward. Using a level 10 bolt reduces this effect, but you will still get wear on the top of the sear, which causes its own problems. To fully solve the issue, you need a dwell time that is long enough to hold the on-off closed until the bolt fully resets. This is where the holding force of the solenoid comes into play.