going crazy w/ONE X-mag *update*

[NU_METAL]

Ok well apparently, in all my fumbling around ,checking ,measuring ,tuning ,and dry firing , i never topped off one of my brand new battery's with a full charge (thought i did ) and finally discovered that one of my chargers stopped charging . that makes 2 out of three dead now
I was off alittle on all my specs but it mostly was the batt the whole time . NOW,..... after i confirmed that they are both charged , i discovered that my recently bought battery (with a set of lowers ) drops in voltage to 11.3volts after less then a hundred shots . So that makes THREE KC battery's i got stuck with that are unreliable and cant get through one day of play. Im alittle ticked at the moment at having to buy another battery yet again
so basically i have 2 charging blocks that just stay green ,and three dead KC batts . So my E-mag is fine & shooting nicely . My X-mag still wont shoot in E-mode

I re-set the dwell & fix like you guys said and it seems better although im getting that shots after letting go of trig in auto . Is that what Fix does ?

Copy & pasted the specs :

Tolerance Specifications - E-Mag - RT-Pro - Minimag/Automag - Level 10

E-Mag:

On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"


Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:

On/Off Pin: .750"

LVL 10
Bolt stem: 2.010"

I want to verify that i am measuring in the correct way , from tip - to back of clevis , correct ?
on both plunger & trig rod
Pics to verify what im saying
If i have an E-mag with an X-valve , which part of the specs sheet do i follow ?
Im assuming i stick to E-mag specs ?






Im missing something because ,both my E-mag & x-mag are refusing to shot in E-mode ,........yet AGAIN ( hybrid is fine and R/T's well )
If i play around with plunger length, it shoots but very inconsistently ( intermittently )
So i set everything back to : trig rod length - 2.125 solenoid plunger length - 3.005
The X-mag was shooting with a brand new AGD batt & solenoid . both batts sitting @ 20.01 volts . under load @ 13.04 volts
The E-mag is a new build ,but set up like my Xmag also with strong batt & solenoid
X - On/Off pin: .710" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
E - On/Off pin: .714" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.

SHP 68/45 tanks
E - has Beta 1.7
X - has Beta 1.8
both are set to ( fix 3 ) (dwell 30 ) maybe im off with the settings ?
as im reaching for answers , I wonder if i should use .725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top ?

why would both E-mags be acting the same way ? I must be doing something wrong, or im missing something in my old age
thanks in advance

[nak81783]

Are you using quad orings as the middle top on/off orings in both markers?

Are the plungers bent?

[NU_METAL]

Are you using quad orings as the middle top on/off orings in both markers?

yes

Are the plungers bent?

No , forgot to mention that , i checked for bent clevis's

[NU_METAL]

Are you using quad orings as the middle top on/off orings in both markers?

Are the plungers bent?

yeah , black quad o rings

[nak81783]

So if you tip your marker 45 degrees back and forth from horizontal, you can hear/see the plunger moving? I just want to verify our checks are the same.

When you state hybrid works fine, is it firing via the solenoid or mechanically engaging the sear rod with the trigger?

[BigEvil]

Stupid question, but is the software registering trigger pulls?

[NU_METAL]

So if you tip your marker 45 degrees back and forth from horizontal, you can hear/see the plunger moving? I just want to verify our checks are the same.

When you state hybrid works fine, is it firing via the solenoid or mechanically engaging the sear rod with the trigger?

yeah i turn marker upside down & watch the plunger move freely , yeah they both are not binding in any way .in hybrid ,the only reson its working is because its hitting the trigger rod

Stupid question, but is the software registering trigger pulls?

when i put both mags on "trig ace " the light does blink on & off , if that's what you mean , plus i can here the solenoid trying to pull down on each stroke

Would velocity too high give the noid a hard time pushing the on/off pin ?
I turned them way down and no difference . and now i get intermittent leaks out the back hole of valve's

[nak81783]

Put fix at 46. Increase dwell gradually to see if it will start firing reliably. Let's see if any dwell will work, and go from there.

What's the output on the SHP tank, and have you checked to make sure it is what you think it is?

[BigEvil]

Are you using the same battery on both?
Keep the fix low and increase the Dwell to 30. That is what the AGD software is.

[athomas]

Yeah, don't worry about the fix just yet. It is there to prevent errant trigger pulses causing extra shots. You aren't having that problem. As mentioned, put the dwell up to 30 to ensure the solenoid gets enough time to pull in for all instances.

Don't use the single oring on-off top configuration. That is only for older valves that are designed with the machined recess in the on-off area. All newer valves don't have that recess. If your valve uses two orings for the on-off top, then you can't use just one.

The 0.725" on-off pin was for use with the urethane inner oring. When AGD started using the quad oring, the sealing surface was lower so a shorter 0.712" pin was needed to maintain the same pull distance for timing purposes.

Your plunger measurements look good. Always use the emag specs when using any valve in an emag. Make sure all your electrical connections are good. If the battery is good and the valve is functional, then it should fire in electronic mode if the trigger input is getting a low pulse.

You can verify the trigger operation with the valve out of the gun. Hold down the back of the sear so that the sear is in the reset position. Then gently pull the trigger until the solenoid activates. You can see where the trigger causes the activation. There should be a bit of trigger movement past the point of activation before it hits the trigger stop. There should also be a bit of trigger movement past the reset point going forward as well. If the trigger is too tight, the magnetic hysteresis of the HES won't allow it to reset after it enters the magnetic field. It won't be able to get far enough away from the magnetic field to reset.

[NU_METAL]

Are you using the same battery on both?
Keep the fix low and increase the Dwell to 30. That is what the AGD software is.

yeah ive been checking with both , i just updated the top of this thread .The E-mag shoots great now .Xmag still wont shoot in E mode

Yeah, don't worry about the fix just yet. It is there to prevent errant trigger pulses causing extra shots. You aren't having that problem. As mentioned, put the dwell up to 30 to ensure the solenoid gets enough time to pull in for all instances.

Don't use the single oring on-off top configuration. That is only for older valves that are designed with the machined recess in the on-off area. All newer valves don't have that recess. If your valve uses two orings for the on-off top, then you can't use just one.

The 0.725" on-off pin was for use with the urethane inner oring. When AGD started using the quad oring, the sealing surface was lower so a shorter 0.712" pin was needed to maintain the same pull distance for timing purposes.

Your plunger measurements look good. Always use the emag specs when using any valve in an emag. Make sure all your electrical connections are good. If the battery is good and the valve is functional, then it should fire in electronic mode if the trigger input is getting a low pulse.

You can verify the trigger operation with the valve out of the gun. Hold down the back of the sear so that the sear is in the reset position. Then gently pull the trigger until the solenoid activates. You can see where the trigger causes the activation. There should be a bit of trigger movement past the point of activation before it hits the trigger stop. There should also be a bit of trigger movement past the reset point going forward as well. If the trigger is too tight, the magnetic hysteresis of the HES won't allow it to reset after it enters the magnetic field. It won't be able to get far enough away from the magnetic field to reset.

thanks for all your help and info much appreciated

[athomas]

The fix prevents the shot from registering until after the solenoid is released. It prevents the solenoid from inducing a HES pulse when you didn't actually pull the trigger. A higher dwell setting requires a higher fix setting. If everything is working well on the emag, then your dwell should be 15 and you can adjust your fix up until it no longer causes full auto.

You can apply a permanent fix to the full auto problem as well. Click here: Emag full auto problem solution