Can NOT figure out x-valve tuning...

[Vernon22o]

Alright so bare with me. I have an x-valve with the level 10 bolt and I am absolutely baffled as to tuning it.

Current state: I have the smallest carrier with 3 shims in it and the red (medium) spring. It wont leak initially and shoots if i go slowly, but the RT is super sensitive, if it gets going to fast it stops and leaks, and the anti-chop is not existent. If i put a squeege in there, it will stop and pinch the squeege in there until i pull the squeege out and then the bolt will continue to move forward like nothing ever happened.

I have tried 0-5 shims with leaks hitting 4 and 5, and i have tired the gold (smallest) spring with no effect, and the grey (largest) spring which when in, the gun does not shoot.

When I move up a carrier size, there is a leak out the barrel no matter how many shims I throw in there.

Someone please help me before I lose my mind.

*edit*
Thanks for the help from everyone. Ran out of air working on it last night but will definitely try all the suggestions come Sunday once I can get my tanks filled :)

[athomas]

When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.

For carrier sizing:

Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.

Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.

For spring adjustment:

You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definately clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.

When you are testing the level 10 bolt using a squeegie or anything in the breach, make sure it is held against the face of the bolt. If it is more than 1/4" from the face, the bolt will hit it with full force. The level 10 softness only works in the first 1/4" of movement.

[OPBN]

Try a new o-ring and start over. Zero shims, gold spring and smallest carrier that won't leak. You will also need to run some oil through it.

[Vernon22o]

Alright so here is where I am at now:

I am using the gold spring like ya said and have taken out all the shims and am using a new o-ring to take out all possibilities.

I am on the second sized carrier with no to very very very little leak out the barrel, which i would expect since im using a new o-ring. It shoots fine, but when i did the squeege test, making sure the tip was within 1/4" of the the bolt, the bolt stopped, and just blasted air out the barrel and did not return to its original position. i had to push the bolt back with my finger. I went to the next sized carrier, and it cycled fine but there was a decent leak out the barrel, more than what is to be expected with a new o-ring. I didnt try the squeege test for the third o-ring.

Where do i go from here?

i appreciate you help

[athomas]

It definately sounds like bolt stick. How worn is your sear? If the sear is allowing the bolt to sit too far forward, it can act similar to having too many shims installed.

[Cyco-Dude]

go back to the carrier that doesn't leak. try the test again...if the bolt sticks, try loosening or tightening the field strip screw or frame screw with an allen wrench and see if that does anything. i have one ule that if i tighten the field strip screw "hand tight", i get bolt stick, but if it's a little loose it works great.

[ElecTROkiLLer]

If you are using a ule body double check your detent isn't to far in. You can simply feel the inside of the detent with your finger, if you feel/see the body of the detent is to far inside the curve of your ule body, it's in to far and can cause bolt stick, failed bolt return, and interrupt the function of the lvl10.

[Spider-TW]

With all the fiddling around, make sure you still have your white nylon backing washer and your rail bushing. They escape sometimes and make for odd symptoms.

[NU_METAL]

With all the fiddling around, make sure you still have your white nylon backing washer and your rail bushing. They escape sometimes and make for odd symptoms.

I was going to say the same thing ,... check to see if your carrier is in upside down, or the white backing Teflon washer (#01694) is missing or in the wrong spot . I've been rebuilding AGD valves for many years now and have been in a rush and did this a few times