Seems like there is still some meat left on the ULE bone. Anyone ever cutting everything after the barrel threads off a ULE body? Would it hurt anything? Does this part of the body serve a purpose? I really like the single tube look and would like to shave/tapper the ULE body down until it smoothly transitions into the barrel.
Anyone ever cut the front off a ULE body?
Collapse
X
-
Done it on several bodies. Just make sure to leave a little in front of the threads to cover the transition to the barrel. -
Cyco-Dude
you're looking at shaving a few grams at most. meanwhile, you're ruining the resale value of an expensive part. unless you're planning on keeping it forever, or getting it re-anodized, don't do it. it's not worth it.Comment
-
-
Oh yeah... that's pretty much what I was thinking...Do you think this is in realm of DIY or should I call a machine shop? I've done a fair bit of wood working but not much metal working. Would you use gradually finer metal files (if such a thing exists) like you would with sand paper for wood working? I'm thinking any kind of power tools would probably be a bad call...Comment
-
Cyco-Dude
i would use my hacksaw if it were me, but you either need to be really good or have a guide to get a straight cut. it's best to leave room for filing / sanding after the cut, so figure out where you want the metal to end, then make your cut line ahead of that mark.Comment
-
You could use a pipe cutter. I would go slightly longer(maybe an 1/8th inch more), then take a file or some sandpaper to it finish it off with. Ahacksaw with a decent blade, or a dremel with a cut off wheel. When using a power tool, watch the heat, the aluminium likes to heat up due to friction(just dunk it in some water to cool it off). Also, watch the buildup of aluminium dust on the blade/file. It builds up quickly.Comment
-
I've used hacksaws, pipe cutters, a mill,and a lathe. Whatever method or tool you use, GO SLOW!!! It's easier to make it shorter then longer, and make sure you've got a good way to hold it. You know how things can go horribly wrong in an instant.
Hacksaw use a fine tooth blade and paraffin wax and a method to guide the blade for as square a cut as you can get. Leave a little extra to finish it. I leave ~1/8 " for finishing. And do leave at least a 1/16 ahead of the threads.
Pipe cutter, get a good one not a Home depot special. Imperial is a good brand. the tear drop milling in the body will give you a little trouble and watch out for corkscrewing. Don't over tighten the blade.
Mill or lathe, If you have either or access to one.
It would be a good idea to check with Luke if your not sure of your skills. If you look at it as a very rare and expensive piece of wood, you got the right idea. But it's worth it to use a good machinist like Luke or you'll end up buying a new body.Last edited by Runamok; 12-31-2014, 03:50 AM.I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?
Comment
-
And if you do make a mess of it, there's always myself and at least 5 other guys out here who will be happy to sell you a new body,
good luck and welcome to the custom world:rofl:
What a piece of work is a man! How noble in reason, how infinite in faculty! In form and moving how express and admirable! In action how like an angel, in apprehension how like a god! The beauty of the world. The paragon of animals. And yet, to me, what is this quintessence of dust?Last edited by Runamok; 12-31-2014, 04:01 AM.I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?
Comment
-
If I were cutting the front off my ULE bodies, I'd also turn down the front so till you can't see the fluting.
I've only seen one barrel look good with the flutes in the body coming to an abrupt end. That barrel happened to also have flutes that almost lined up with those in the body.Comment






Comment