Trigger rod length & anti-seize questions

[ideinit]

I made the noob mistake of messing with the trigger rod length... sigh.

What is the official spec so I can adjust it back?

I am running an Automag, X-Valve, ULT, and an unknown frame. While at it, can anyone identify this frame?

10991311_10102964184537254_5473197443175096159_n.jpg

Also I wanted to rebuild my X-Valve, AGD recommends "anti-seize" in the velocity adjuster threads - any recommendation for those and where do I get them?

[Nobody]

The frame is a Powerlyte Powerstix or Gripsticks or something like that. Its a nominal type double trigger frame.

Anti-seize is just a product that keeps a screw and the threads won't lock on. Loctite makes some you could use.

[OPBN]

Trigger rod should be a credit cards thickness from the back of the trigger when the marker is aired up.

As for the rebuild... Is it leaking? One thing new Mag owners do way too often is "fix it til it's broke". If it's working, put some oil in it and leave it alone. Buy a rebuild kit and hold onto it. Replace o-rings as they fail.

[Cyco-Dude]

you can go to any auto parts store and grab some anti seize. i got mine from autozone forever ago; just one of those $2 blister packs that you would usually get for spark plugs will last a long time, apparently.

the trigger rod length is 1.985" (although i've also seen 1.998" for am/mm?), so i'd start there. it can be different for non-agd frames though, so it may need to be adjusted further.

[BigEvil]

Dont put anti seize on the trigger rod threads. They should be set to spec (IF stock specs apply to that frame) and red loctited so that the rod doesn't move.

Reading is your friend.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?67604-Tolerance-Specifications-E-Mag-RT-Pro-Minimag-Automag-Level-10

[Cyco-Dude]

Dont put anti seize on the trigger rod threads.

lol nobody said to put it on the trigger rod, he was asking about using it on the velocity adjustment nut.

red loctite is a bit overkill; blue is fine and allows for easier future adjustments if needed.

[Nobody]

lol nobody said to put it on the trigger rod

I said no such thing. Don't say hings that aren't nice or true. Schmuck

[BigEvil]

This is what happens when I read **** on my phone

[Cyco-Dude]

I said no such thing. Don't say hings that aren't nice or true. Schmuck

lol i see what you did there...

[Nobody]

No, its what you said.

[ideinit]

Trigger rod should be a credit cards thickness from the back of the trigger when the marker is aired up.

As for the rebuild... Is it leaking? One thing new Mag owners do way too often is "fix it til it's broke". If it's working, put some oil in it and leave it alone. Buy a rebuild kit and hold onto it. Replace o-rings as they fail.

Thanks for the advice. It's currently functioning just fine so I'll leave it alone. I just want to have all the stuff on hand when I need to do a rebuild. (I have already bought the rebuild kit)

[ideinit]

Thanks everyone for the advise!

[ideinit]

Trigger rod should be a credit cards thickness from the back of the trigger when the marker is aired up.

As for the rebuild... Is it leaking? One thing new Mag owners do way too often is "fix it til it's broke". If it's working, put some oil in it and leave it alone. Buy a rebuild kit and hold onto it. Replace o-rings as they fail.

With some slack between the trigger rod and back of the trigger, the mechanical mag will inherently always have a "sloppy" trigger then? I've shot friend's DM and PMR and I sort of like the hairline trigger feel. I am guessing that is resolved by eMag?

[Cyco-Dude]

no, the trigger will always rest on the rod. you just don't want the rod so long that it prevents the on/off from opening all the way. it'll be fine.

[Nobody]

Yes, you want a little slop in there. I don't even notice it at all. It might not have electro crispness, but it is still fine.