Edumacation please

[Pudgey51]

So I've been looking around and this has always confused me a bit. With the classic RT, I've always seen the stainless line running into the rail just below the valve assembly like this:

image.jpg

And I've always wondered how does the air get into the regulator? I'm assuming there's a system of orings to ensure no leakage but if anyone has photos of the inside of the body, regulator, and the rail so that I may better understand it, I would appreciate it.

[UncleStasiu]

The field strip screw is a banjo bolt, passing air from the rail to the valve.



Instead of a port on the side of the valve, the threaded hole on the bottom is just drilled all the way through.

[Nobody]

Yup. The rail is channeled for the air transfer. The banjo bolt channels the air from the rail to the valve

[Pudgey51]

That's awesome, so simple really. Thank you!

[blackdeath1k]

That's awesome, so simple really. Thank you!

when working properly I love mine. But the banjo bold can be a finniky little bugger with air leaks. Good thing its normally not an issue considering that's my primary marker.

[Pudgey51]

when working properly I love mine. But the banjo bold can be a finniky little bugger with air leaks. Good thing its normally not an issue considering that's my primary marker.

What makes it so funniky? Do the orings get shredded often or just not seal correctly?

[Spider-TW]

What makes it so funniky? Do the orings get shredded often or just not seal correctly?

Sometimes the body can shift enough to overlap the rail hole, which chews on the top o-ring on the bolt. You can grind the body back just a hair to stop that (usually just the rear edge of the hole in the body, as the bolt hammers the body forward).

The banjo bolt spans an unsupported gap which is a little wider than the thickness of the body tube. The bottom two o-rings contain pressure in the rail, the top o-ring contains the pressure in the valve body. They are 90 duro o-rings to keep everything in place, but they have to slip as you turn the banjo bolt in or out. You need to keep it clean and lubed and only tighten as needed.

You generally try to let the banjo align everything, then tighten the front frame screw. If the banjo has trouble coming out, loosen the front frame screw first. I think some people follow that every time (front frame screw first and last when removing/replacing the banjo). After I ground the body hole clear on mine, I don't have much interaction with the front screw except for a full cleanout (like last weekend).

So yeah, they take a little of getting used to.

RTs are heavier than most other mags, but that's correctable when it matters. Also, I suspect that in addition to the ninja SHP, the ninja super light tanks will take another notch off of the complaints on the RT.

[blackdeath1k]

What makes it so funniky? Do the orings get shredded often or just not seal correctly?

I actually posted that because if the banjo bolt is not at the perfect tension I get a taint leak. But if its to tight it binds the bolt. Other than that. I love my classicRT

[Spider-TW]

I actually posted that because if the banjo bolt is not at the perfect tension I get a taint leak.

Good thing we don't have sigs.

[blackdeath1k]

Good thing we don't have sigs.

Dang it! Faint leak. And lol. Talking about the banjo bolt on my marker. NOTHING else. Haha.