ULT in a classic valve leaks after putting 5 shims

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  • Tachiro
    Registered User
    • Mar 2009
    • 68

    #1

    ULT in a classic valve leaks after putting 5 shims

    After a good deal of scouring that ULT sticky, i'm still having a bit of trouble...troubleshooting this leak. Not sure how/where to start, but let's go with the setup:

    Micromag body
    Classic valve
    level 7 bolt

    Here's a list of unsorted details/factors:
    - the stock on/off functions fine with no leaks
    - i'm waiting on an mpa-3 to finish the pneumag frame i'm working on separately. But for now i've got the stock cf frame on to tune the ULT

    Here's a list of shim results:

    0 shims: no leak, doesn't fire
    1 shim: no leak, doesn't fire
    4 shims: no leak, doesn't fire
    5 shims: soft leak, chuffs i guess but doesn't actually fire, no leaks when the trigger is pulled
    6 shims: leaks, fires, chuffs at higher rof than 3-4 bps, no leaks when the trigger is pulled
    8 shims: leaks, fires reliably, no leaks when trigger is pulled
    9 shims: on/off protrudes too much to slide into mag body

    Anyone know what i should do next?

    FYI:
    i also happen to have an RT on/off here for reference.

    Random thought:
    I tried an experiment with the stock on/off installed. I pointed the marker upwards and hung a bag over the trigger, then slowly put little weights in until it fired. I put the bag on a scale afterward and it came out to about 7lbs. I forgot why i wanted to mention that. I'm sure it'll be of use to someone eventually.
  • going_home
    Hebrews 13:8

    • Dec 2004
    • 8343

    #2
    If you'd have come to Tunaball like I tried to get you to do, there was someone there that could either fix it, or baptize it.


    Comment

    • Tachiro
      Registered User
      • Mar 2009
      • 68

      #3
      Originally posted by going_home View Post
      If you'd have come to Tunaball like I tried to get you to do, there was someone there that could either fix it, or baptize it.


      lol that weekend the problem didn't exist yet.

      Comment

      • going_home
        Hebrews 13:8

        • Dec 2004
        • 8343

        #4
        BigEvil isnt very far from you.

        Maybe PM him.

        Comment

        • Laku
          Registered User

          • Nov 2012
          • 940

          #5
          ULT isn't really meant for classic valve. And from what I've read, while it can probably be made to work in some cases, it will be very hard to do so.

          Comment

          • Tachiro
            Registered User
            • Mar 2009
            • 68

            #6
            Originally posted by Laku View Post
            ULT isn't really meant for classic valve. And from what I've read, while it can probably be made to work in some cases, it will be very hard to do so.
            Which is exactly what i've heard, but i'm definitely open to a little modding here or there if needed.
            Also, i'm really just looking to see if/what i can do to eliminate the leak rather than getting the most out of the ULT, seeing as the pneuframe will eventually be doing all the work. Which, come to think of it, i'm gonna do that trigger pull test with the RT on/off and see how many pounds it needs to trip. It's hard for me to tell at this point how light i need to get it so that i won't have recharge/consistency issues with the lpr(tickler).

            Comment

            • Cyco-Dude

              #7
              i think take the ult out, and put the rt in.

              Comment

              • athomas
                Of course it works-its AGD
                • Jan 2002
                • 8039

                #8
                It sounds like one of your lower orings, either the small black inner one or the larger urethane outer one, isn't sealing. The lower number of shims is preventing the on-off from opening and letting air into the chamber, which is why it isn't leaking. Once you have enough shims installed to push the on-off top far enough to clear the pin, air flows and it leaks.

                When measuring the trigger force, make sure the point of measurement is where the trigger rod hits the trigger. This is the point of reference for all measurements.
                Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                Comment

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