Annoying issue with on/off pins...

[cledford]

I'm just getting back into paintball after a rather long hiatus. I was putting together a classic mag this evening (AIR valve) and noticed something I was having an issue with on my Emag as well - the on/off pin protruding down into the sear hole, preventing the valve from sliding out the back of the gun during disassembly. The gun seems to be degassed and it is weird that all 3 of my valves do it (Xvalve on Emag, Emag valve with ULT on inteliframe, and AIR valve on inteliframe)

I don't remember this being an issue when I first got into mags. The only difference I can think of us when it wasn't an issue was during the L7 days, before I started running level 10 on all my valves.

Anyone have any ideas on what causes this? It is semi-annoying to have to always completely disassemble the gun when I only need to pull the valve out to do something.

Thanks!

Calvin

[audioSLAVE]

Pull the trigger all the way back before you remove the valve. This will push the on/off pin in and allow the valve to be removed without issue.

[Menace_AO]

^^^^

This.

[Nobody]

As the orings wear in, their friction fit lessens, so gravity and oil will cause them to slide down. Just pull trigger to push up the trigger pin. That's all.

[cledford]

I do pull the trigger - unless I'm supposed to pull it and hold it back (I'll give that a try) that is not the issue.

[Cyco-Dude]

when pulling the trigger back does not push the pin up far enough for the valve to slide out, what i do is get a small allen wrench (or a twig even!) and put it in-between the trigger and sear rod, then pull the trigger back. this allows the sear (and thus, on/off pin) to be pushed up just that little bit more. that usually does the trick.

[vintage]

i don't remember this being a problem way back when but it dosn't matter which valve or on/off i have but this happens to me a lot. usually i can push the sear rod back with my finger nail to slide the pin all the way up. i sometimes wonder if it has something to do with how tight the field strip screw is. maybe the valve is a little farther back and thats not letting the sear push the pin in all the way.

[zondo]

when pulling the trigger back does not push the pin up far enough for the valve to slide out, what i do is get a small allen wrench (or a twig even!) and put it in-between the trigger and sear rod, then pull the trigger back. this allows the sear (and thus, on/off pin) to be pushed up just that little bit more. that usually does the trick.

+1

Or you can have a hole drilled just behind the grip and press up with the frame screw, ala M-90

[athomas]

The valves hold more residual pressure with the level 10 bolt than with the level 7 bolt and the level 7 would operate at a lower chamber pressure so that you shoot all excess air out of the chamber before pulling the valve. With the level 10 bolt, there is always a significant amount of air in the chamber, even after you degass and pull the trigger for that last shot. If you hold the trigger in while pulling the valve, the on-off pin will generally clear the hole in the body.

[Menace_AO]

It is also possible that the trigger rod has been shortened too much, which could prevent the pin from being pushed up far enough to allow the valve to clear the body, even with the trigger pulled all the way.

But if this is a problem on several different markers, that seems highly unlikely.

Sounds almost like air is still in the system, pushing the pin down.

If you degas, turn the marker barrel up then pull the trigger all the way, does the trigger rod stay back? Or does it creep forward again?

Forward says air is still in the system. If it stays back, I'm inclined to think the rod isn't allowing the sear to push the pin far enough in to clear. If that is the case, check to see if there is a lot of clearance between the back of the trigger and the trigger rod when fully gassed. Should be about a credit card thickness, no more, no less.