Rt body compatibility question

[Pghp8ntballer]

Out of curiosity, I would like to know what valves aside from the original RT valve will fit inside the original RT body? You know the one with the Swiss cheese hole front and angle cut back?

I know classic valves require the body to be cut... That is my setup on my smart mag. But do the X and RT Pro valves require the body to be cut?

[Cyco-Dude]

Out of curiosity, I would like to know what valves aside from the original RT valve will fit inside the original RT body? You know the one with the Swiss cheese hole front and angle cut back?

I know classic valves require the body to be cut... That is my setup on my smart mag. But do the X and RT Pro valves require the body to be cut?

any of them, but only the rt classic valve will fit into the body without having to modify anything. in order to use an rt classic body with other valves, you would need to cut the rt classic body. the x and rt pro valves are the same dimensions as the other classic stainless valves. only the rt classic is the oddball.

[Pghp8ntballer]

Ok. That's exactly what I wanted to know.

And now for a crazy question on this topic...

Don't ask why, the answer is just because...

Can a classic valve, or RTP or X valves be milled down to fit in an uncut RT Classic body?

[Tunaman]

no

[Cyco-Dude]

Ok. That's exactly what I wanted to know.

And now for a crazy question on this topic...

Don't ask why, the answer is just because...

Can a classic valve, or RTP or X valves be milled down to fit in an uncut RT Classic body?

i've seen someone do that...don't do it, unless you want to completely tank any value the valve has.

[Pghp8ntballer]

It was simply a theoretical question. Is there sufficient material on any of the other valves to turn down and not compromise integrity, or is it simply functionally impossible.

[blackdeath1k]

Yes it can be done. I've got one. Turned it down to spec on a lathe.
Out of curiosity why are you asking?

[blackdeath1k]

Yes it can be done. I've got one. Turned it down in a lathe.

[blackdeath1k]

Currently my valve has neither. As many here have setups that did away with that. But actually the rt classic reg half screws on the retro front half. So that is one way to re squire the safety pin.

[Cyco-Dude]

considering the design of the reactive valves internally is the same, the only difference are the external dimensions. you would have to do something about the z-lock pin though, as it's in a different location on the rt classic valves. you either need a new hole to relocate the pin on a different valve, or make a new channel in the rtc body, or neither and do without that feature i guess.

[Pghp8ntballer]

My reasoning behind these questions is simply curiosity. The ideas just popped into my head so I thought I would ask.

I love the original RT body look. But I know it was an outsider as far as compatibility was concerned. I simply put those thoughts together and came up with those questions.

[blackdeath1k]

That's kinda why I did it. I've got most of the parts to make a y grip mag out of it. Even the y. Just haven't been motivated enough to finish it.

[Tunaman]

The valve is designed to hold 3000 psi. If you mill any part of it off you are asking for trouble and may hurt yourself or others. Dont do it.

[Cyco-Dude]

The valve is designed to hold 3000 psi. If you mill any part of it off you are asking for trouble and may hurt yourself or others. Dont do it.

what then makes the rt classic valve special? same internals, just different OD, isn't it? is the alloy used in the rt classic regulator body different than that of the rt pro, retro, emag or x-valves? or did agd make a mistake in the design of the rt classic valve?

[cockerpunk]

The valve is designed to hold 3000 psi. If you mill any part of it off you are asking for trouble and may hurt yourself or others. Dont do it.

you could try not feeding it 3000 psi