Emag wont fire

[Paintballnut777]

My emag will fire in manual but when set to electro it will not fire. I can here the noid clicking but it will not shoot. Any ideas? Does it just need oil? Thanks ahead of time! Oh and I'm running v1.35 on the board.

[Tunaman]

My emag will fire in manual but when set to electro it will not fire. I can here the noid clicking but it will not shoot. Any ideas? Does it just need oil? Thanks ahead of time! Oh and I'm running v1.35 on the board.

charge the battery overnight and then check battery voltage. Should be 20+volts right off the charger. Check the charger output for 26+ volts. Let us know what you find.

[Paintballnut777]

battery was fully charged. Green light on charger. I'll check the volts on the charger and battery in case. Thanks! If it's not the battery or charger what do you think it may be?

[Paintballnut777]

Okay checked the volts volts are good. I did notice when it was on saftey it had a louder click from the noid but wouldn't shoot.

[Cyco-Dude]

hmm...take the valve and body off, and make sure the solenoid is pulling the sear rod down.

[Paintballnut777]

Thank you Cyco-Dude and everyone else that's been helping!

I actually did that before I came back on here and it pulled the sear rod down and tested it with the 3 and 6 shot bursts and did what it was supposed to do. When I aired it up it wouldn't pull it down. Like it didn't have enough strength to pull it down. I adjusted the up and down and got to a point that the farther the piston was screwed out from the sear it was able to pull the sear rod down but it was to the point manual wasn't tripping the sear to fire.

The only thing I can think of is it needs a new solenoid and that one just became weak. I just got this emag so that could be the reason. This is my first emag, I'm only familiar with the mech mags.

[Cyco-Dude]

i'd check the specs of the sear with some calipers (note: remove the sear axle before trying to remove the rail).

E-Mag:

On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

Trigger Rod: 2.125"

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

[Tunaman]

Thank you Cyco-Dude and everyone else that's been helping!

I actually did that before I came back on here and it pulled the sear rod down and tested it with the 3 and 6 shot bursts and did what it was supposed to do. When I aired it up it wouldn't pull it down. Like it didn't have enough strength to pull it down. I adjusted the up and down and got to a point that the farther the piston was screwed out from the sear it was able to pull the sear rod down but it was to the point manual wasn't tripping the sear to fire.

The only thing I can think of is it needs a new solenoid and that one just became weak. I just got this emag so that could be the reason. This is my first emag, I'm only familiar with the mech mags.

I have have repaired hundreds of Emags. I have only had a bad solenoid once. I would take bets you battery has a bad cell.

[Paintballnut777]

It's the old 650 mah too

[Paintballnut777]

I will check those specs a little later and get back to you. Thanks for sending me those. I know I have the aluminum top, I know that much.

[Paintballnut777]

Okay I checked the specs and everything was in spec but the solenoid rod sear i shortened it to what it needed to be.

I aired it up and still nothing. Manual still shoots like a dream though. I guess I'll buy a new battery and go from there. Really didn't want to pay for a battery that will cost as much as a car battery but oh well.

[Paintballnut777]

I just checked my battery volts and it's saying 18.60 volts. I don't think it's the battery, less 18.6 volts means it's toast.

[Paintballnut777]

Okay I just figured it out! I got curious and put my xvalve in because I knew it works like a champ. Put it in, put the emag on electro 3 shot burst and boom boom boom. I remeasured the on/off in the evalve again and sure enough I read my calipers wrong and it measured .750 so I have to replace it. So now I'm just going to leave the x valve in it for next weekend or until I get the replacement part from AGD. I'm glad I got that idea before I bought a new battery!

Which on/off would be better, the .712 or the .725?

[athomas]

You should have the 0.712" pin and you should also have the black quad oring instead of the white urethane oring on your on-off top.

You should think about getting an upgraded battery pack. The one you have probably doesn't have much capacity if it is an original AGD pack. Most NiMh batteries only last for 5 - 7 years tops, especially if they aren't stored fully charged. If yours is original, it would be 10 to 15 years old.

[Paintballnut777]

You should have the 0.712" pin and you should also have the black quad oring instead of the white urethane oring on your on-off top.

You should think about getting an upgraded battery pack. The one you have probably doesn't have much capacity if it is an original AGD pack. Most NiMh batteries only last for 5 - 7 years tops, especially if they aren't stored fully charged. If yours is original, it would be 10 to 15 years old.

I have what looks like the aluminum on/off and the pin measures 0.750" I bought the emag recently off of mcarter. I don't know why it measures that length but it does, I put my x valve in and it shoots fine. The x valve has a ULE on/off ( i know not supposed to use it in an emag) but works. For now the on/off is the only issue I have.