Need help with an old Max-Flo system

[kutter]

So I have what I am pretty sure is a 1st gen Max-Flo system. I got it cheap a long time ago and always liked it, but now the bottle is beyond being able to be inspected. Does anyone know if I remove the on/off adapter with the reverse threads is the adapter to bottle threading the same as any modern bottle? Also, anyone have any idea if this 3000psi system can be upgraded to 4500psi with a new burst disk?

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And yes, I know the fitting for the macro is rusty and needs to be replaced.

[captian pinky]

im pretty sure that newly produced bottles do not have the reverse threading for the on/off valve. If you really wanted to use a maxflo they can be had fairly cheaply and will fit all of the newer bottles.

If you don't mind the size of that setup you should look into the ones that look similar but have normal tank regs that screw in. the older styles had the better on/offs from what i have seen. the inline maxflo always cuts the on/off and you don't have a way to turn the air off.

[kutter]

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The arrow points to the brass on/off which has left hand threads for screwing into the regulator itself. I am wondering if where brass meets the aluminum and it screws into the bottle if it is standard threading such as is for a regulator. If so, I can track down an 88ci and replace the bottle and have the system be working again for only the price of a new bottle.

[Nobody]

1st gen max-flos had the long adjustment knob, which was about twice as long as what you have now. Next is the pressure. What is it a 3k or 4.5k system? If its a 3k system, then the bottle to "adapter" should be left handed threads.

[kutter]

I must not be explaining myself well. The piece of brass you see in picture with the knob is left hand threads, that screws into the regulator, see pics on top. I know that is left hand thread and it is not even standard tank thread. I suspect that was done so there could be no way to screw a HPA bottle into the regulator. What I am trying to find out, without going through the hassle of taking the brass on/off assembly off of the tank; is if the tank itself is threaded the same as it would be for a regulator.

I thought those with the long knob were for LP systems which mine is most assuredly not as I have run it well above 900psi.

It is a 3K system, so are you saying Nobody that the threads on the cylinder itself are also left handed?

[maniacmechanic]

threads on the bottle side should be the std 5/8 thread

[kutter]

threads on the bottle side should be the std 5/8 thread

I am thinking they are as well, time to see if I can separate the two.

[going_home]

Last time I finally got the reg off a really old tank it was 3/4" inside the bottle not the now standard 5/8".

Thought I was never going to find a reg to fit it.

[kutter]

Last time I finally got the reg off a really old tank it was 3/4" inside the bottle not the now standard 5/8".

Thought I was never going to find a reg to fit it.

Oh, you are a barrel of laughs and here I thought maybe I actually had a chance to find a bottle to fit it. Well, it is not pressing right now, just a nice to have at this point.

[BigEvil]

I think I have one similar to this. I screw a standard bottle into it, only I have to put a bottle oring in front of it first.

[kutter]

Yours would have to be at least a generation after mine, SP went to that design in the next release. While easier to make use of, since it fits a standard bottle, how do you get pressure above 850psi?

[Nobody]

I must not be explaining myself well. The piece of brass you see in picture with the knob is left hand threads, that screws into the regulator, see pics on top. I know that is left hand thread and it is not even standard tank thread. I suspect that was done so there could be no way to screw a HPA bottle into the regulator. What I am trying to find out, without going through the hassle of taking the brass on/off assembly off of the tank; is if the tank itself is threaded the same as it would be for a regulator.

I thought those with the long knob were for LP systems which mine is most assuredly not as I have run it well above 900psi.

It is a 3K system, so are you saying Nobody that the threads on the cylinder itself are also left handed?

No, the adapter to reg are left handed, the tank to adapter are regular right handed threads. It also helps to have opposing threads as you loosen one and tighten the other. PE with some of their shaft barrel kits used a "reverse" thread, so you can unscrew the barrel as a whole, by tightening the tip and unsrewing from the body.

Your system would predate the regular, screw in tanks. It could also be used with Co2. The left-handed threads where to prevent the accidental screwing of the tank into guns it shouldn't be on.

Ynda's all things SP site would give the most and best info. Its like www.zdpbs.com or something close to that.