Classic RT with a new L10

[blackdeath1k]

My wife's minimag has had a L10 for ages. Works fine. My old RT though.... I got it in 97 ish. It's bone stock other than a Ygrip frame. Finally the L7 bolt and sear have been causing issues. So I decided to just replace with new. On off pin is 0.744". Marker has the new HP reg piston. I'm doing all tests without a barrel. So that is not a factor.

Got everything assembled with correct trigger rod/ trigger clearance. Put the new stock bolt spring in. Marker fired then would chuff. And act as if the on off pin was to long. I replaced the L10 carrier to the one smaller. Now it leaks past. Pull the trigger and the leak comes to a semi slow hault. So went back to the next carrier up and I'm back to square 1. It will fire a fee times then chuff or stick. Anyone else have a thought on this?

[vintage]

what spring? you may have to add a couple of shims with the carrier. it may also need to break in a little bit.

[blackdeath1k]

Stock spring. Thought shims were a no-no now?

[athomas]

If it is sticking, then the carrier is too tight. Shims won't help. If it was alaready too tight causing chuffs and you installed a tighter carrier, then the carrier and oring can get pushed back by the bolt stem which keeps the vent hole exposed. Any residual pressure in the chamber will leak out the front.

It could also be a tiny on-off leak.

I would try to tune the level 10. If the marker fires and then sticks, or if it chuffs when firing a shot, then go to the next larger carrier. If it still doesn't fire properly, go to the next larger one again. Get it to the point where you are using the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If you are getting any sticking at all, then you are probably using a carrier size that is too tight.

When you install a level 10 bolt after using a level 7 bolt, don't forget to increase your velocity setting. That will have an effect as well, since the level 10 requires more chamber pressure to push the bolt forward at the same shooting velocity.

[blackdeath1k]

Velocity already upped. And upped. A hair under max.

As far as the carrier and sticking. That's how I understood it. And why I'm saying I started with the one with a single dot on it. It stuck a hair. So I went to the next one looser with a single ring and it leaks. The one with nothing on it is way to tight. And the one with a ring and dot is way to loose. That brought me back to square one with the carrier with a single dot on it that appeared to be a smidge tight.

[vintage]

try a different o ring in the carrier, and it may need broke in.

[vintage]

I have one that acted up some and it finally quit like it needed broke in.

[blackdeath1k]

Hmmmm. Here is an odd one. I was always on the understanding that the fieldstrip screw was Sposed to be hand tight. I humored myself and tightened it with a wrench. Left the tighter carrier in. Worked fine other than a faint leak. But I actually think that I nicked the oring with all of my removal and reassembly. So now need to replace the oring and see how it does with a new one. On a plus side. Ran my tank down to about 600 psi. So put it on my new to me geo3. That thing can be fun...

[athomas]

Velocity already upped. And upped. A hair under max.

As far as the carrier and sticking. That's how I understood it. And why I'm saying I started with the one with a single dot on it. It stuck a hair. So I went to the next one looser with a single ring and it leaks. The one with nothing on it is way to tight. And the one with a ring and dot is way to loose. That brought me back to square one with the carrier with a single dot on it that appeared to be a smidge tight.

I misunderstood. I thought you went the other way.

Marker fired then would chuff. ..... I replaced the L10 carrier to the one smaller. Now it leaks past.

It happens every so often that the oring might not have a good sealing surface. Perhaps it got a blemish on it. Try changing the oring and tuning again.

When you tighten the field screw, it can pull the valve into alignment with the body. If you overtighten it, it can distort the alignment. Watch it closesly and get a feel for the tension when using a wrench.

[blackdeath1k]

Well mag shoots fine now. But in the midst I've got a new question. Are there any differences in a trigger that came OE in a Ygrip vs the one that came OE in an intelliframe? I ask because the trigger in my Y came out of my old intelli. Comparing my blmarker with Y and my wife's with intelli. Her trigger when fully pulled in fits flush with the frame. My trigger when pulled in appears to be less refined on its fit. And now if it sticks at all. I can put a shim between the trigger rod and trigger and it will Finnish firing perfectly every time.

[blackdeath1k]

In hunting I have found the answer to my above question. And apparently Yes there is a difference in the OE trigger for the Y and the OE trigger for the Intelli. Guess it's time to mill the back of the intelli trigger off so it will remedy the lack of full throw.

It's funny how getting things back to new OE spec is causing me issues that were never an issue with the old wore out stuff.

[BiNumber3]

Couldn't you just adjust the trigger rod a bit?

[blackdeath1k]

Nope. Not without putting continuous pressure on the rod. There is a kink in the OE Ygrip trigger that the Iframe trigger does not have. That kink gives added stroke. With the worn sear it would trip right before bottoming out without trouble. Now with a new sear it trips right at the bottom out stage. When the trigger is bottomed out there is still a large gap between the trigger and frame due to the shape of the trigger. It will be easily fixed now that it has been found.

[rickenbacker22]

I have the same setup, classic rt, level x, y frame, only difference is mines more complicated since I run a warp feed.
My mag loves oil tho, havin oil will definitely help any air leaks. Seems like it took a good case to break in my level x bolt .