Trouble of unknown source

[tucson.az.jbreen]

Xvalve,
Luke's ul rail,
Intelliframe
Am/mm sear

I believe I may be experiencing issues with body/valve alignment.

I gas up the marker, and it gets pressure on the sear pin, but it's stuck up, can't get it to fire.

It seems like the answer seems to be to adjust The thumb screw on the back with s wrench.

The marker is gassed up still, I slowly tighten the valve down until it clicks, and the sear pin pops forward to where it should be.

It will fire, pretty good usually, but then go back to being stuck again for apparently no reason??

I'm thinking Two possibilities

1 my rail is possibly out of spec?

2 I noticed the screw I have going through the grip frame does not sit completely flush, and I'm wondering if this is causing the intelliframe to sit funky.

Now I read briefly another thread on this forum mentioning that was an issue with the intelliframe and was meant to be fixed.

I have just a standard 10-32 bolt going through the front. There is an agd brand thumb screw on the back, and an agd rail bushing.

Should I seek out the proper washer/screw for the frame?

Do I need an rt spec rail for being xvalve system?

Jim

[Sandman]

The fact that you tighten the thumb screw and then it loosens again is bad. It should stay tight. It's possible the rail is bent.
Take the rail and lay it on a flat glass top and see if rocks from corner to corner. If it rocks on a flat surface it is bent. All four corners should lay flat to the surface.

Try using a disc spring from a spring pack to fill the void if there is a small gap between the frame screw and the Intelliframe.
If it's the wrong screw do not do this as a fix. Use of too long of a screw will cause issues.

Classic mag rail/frame screws are not a standard length. If you are using a screw from a hardware store. it's not the right length.
That will cause an issue as it will not tighten enough. If you can restart the threads you can grind or file it shorter.
The correct screw is Part #000176.

You do not need an RT rail. It will work with a standard rail.

Sandman

[luke]

I've sold 100's of AM rails without issue, they are made to spec. I'm not real clear on the issue but I'm curious if your trigger rod is jammed against the trigger when aired up? There should be a small gap between the end of the trigger rod and the back of the trigger when it's aired up. If you assemble the rail, Intelli and body together with the front grip frame screw, does it tighten up the three parts or are they loose? If it's loose the screw is too long.

[Spider-TW]

Take the rail and lay it on a flat glass top and see if rocks from corner to corner. If it rocks on a flat surface it is bent.

Roll the body around on there too, just to be sure it is straight. That is occasionally a problem with stainless bodies that have been heated.

Fix the screws either way. Don't overtighten the front screw on a ULE body. On a stainless body, a long screw will impede the twistlock barrel. Even when nothing is actually bent, a loose fit in the rail for either the body or the valve can make the bolt drag and not come back far enough for the sear to reset, especially with a light bolt spring.

Does your rear field strip screw still have a urethane washer on it?

[Sandman]

I've sold 100's of AM rails without issue, they are made to spec.

Luke, this was not meant as a reference to your quality, your parts are top notch, but after it's in a customer hands who knows what people do to it...
and I've seen your rails sold and trade hands a half a dozen times....God knows what they go through.....LOL.

[Justus]

Sounds like classic bolt stick. Before messing with anything, check all your parts for proper assembly and spec. Like Sandman said, you shouldn't be tightening and then loosening the field strip screw. Then, if it is bolt stick, before messing with the L10 bolt, try turning up the velocity because if it's not up to speed it won't reset the trigger. If you can't get it to reliably reset the trigger at a velocity under 300 (or if the valve starts leaking out the back) check the o-ring on the reg nut (#24 on the X-valve exploded view). You're going to need a chronograph.

If all that doesn't change your position, start rechecking your o-rings/carriers in your Level 10.

[tucson.az.jbreen]

@Luke sorry about that friend, totally did not intend a swipe at you or your products. I honestly was at my wit's end with this project, and was looking for a problem that appeared to have no causation.

I am still not totally sure I fixed it but I believe the issue was in fact trigger rod length. It was too close up against the trigger and didn't allow the on/off pin to make full strokes. I shortened the trigger rod just a hair by tightening it into the sear assembly.

It "appears" to be cycling correctly and at an incredible ROF with air only.

I've had it appear to be working before only to add paint to the system and have it go back to not working. So we will see what happens. If I don't figure it out this week I'm just going to break and send it to tuna.

@sandman when you say Part #000176, that is a reference number to airgundesigns.com's parts catalogue?

Thanks for all the patience and help,
Jim

[Sandman]

Yep,

That's the correct screw for attaching the frame, rail and body together.

[tucson.az.jbreen]

http://www.airgundesigns.com/product-p/000176.htm

This appears to be a standard 10-32 button head screw available commonly at Ace hardware,

Which is what I have holding the unit together now.


Is there some washer that comes with the bolt when purchased from agd?

[rawbutter]

http://www.airgundesigns.com/product-p/000176.htm

This appears to be a standard 10-32 button head screw available commonly at Ace hardware,

Which is what I have holding the unit together now.

The screws that come from AGD are actually not a standard length. I'm not saying you can't find one at a local hardware store, but if you did, that's pretty darn lucky. I've bought a few from my local place, but I always have to grind off about 1/4 inch before I can use them.

You didn't mention what body you're using, but it's pretty easy to tell if the screw is too long. If you're using a classic stainless steel body, then you won't be able to insert and turn the twist lock barrel if the body screw is too long. If you're using a ULE, the screw will hit the bottom of the body and not hold the body and rail tight enough together if it's too long.

[cougar20th]

The screws that come from AGD are actually not a standard length. I'm not saying you can't find one at a local hardware store, but if you did, that's pretty darn lucky. I've bought a few from my local place, but I always have to grind off about 1/4 inch before I can use them.

You didn't mention what body you're using, but it's pretty easy to tell if the screw is too long. If you're using a classic stainless steel body, then you won't be able to insert and turn the twist lock barrel if the body screw is too long. If you're using a ULE, the screw will hit the bottom of the body and not hold the body and rail tight enough together if it's too long.

I highly doubt agd is using custom length screws. But a local hardware store may not be the place to look as they can only carry so much.

Try mcmaster-carr. https://www.mcmaster.com
They should have what you need. You just might end up with a few spares.

[luke]

It's 7/8" 10-32 isn't it? It's not really custom it's just not commonly carried at hardware stores.

[tucson.az.jbreen]