Up grade to a 68 mag

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  • Scottprocurot
    Registered User
    • Dec 2016
    • 51

    #1

    Up grade to a 68 mag

    Hello
    I have 2 questions
    1. How much weight can you shave off it
    2 what would be worth it to upgrade
    I have a phase 2 valve and reactor on/off benchmark trigger frame
    Should i get a new
    On/off
    L10 kit
    Barrel

    And how do I post a pic
    If anyone has any pic of there mag i would be interested in seeing your pic
  • blackdeath1k
    Registered User
    • Jan 2002
    • 2436

    #2


    Link should get you to the armory sub forum. It is where all the mag pictures tend to get posted.

    Comment

    • rawbutter
      Registered User
      • Feb 2007
      • 1463

      #3
      Originally posted by Scottprocurot View Post
      Hello
      I have 2 questions
      1. How much weight can you shave off it
      2 what would be worth it to upgrade
      I have a phase 2 valve and reactor on/off benchmark trigger frame
      Should i get a new
      On/off
      L10 kit
      Barrel
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]93337[/ATTACH]
      First off, let me say welcome to AO. You will never find a more wretched hive of time wasting, and fan-boying.

      And you've got a nice mag. Congrats. But I must say, your questions will have lots of different answers depending on personal opinion. You can shave off a LOT of weight, but most of that will involve upgrading parts and spending lots of money. An x-valve, for instance, is about half as heavy as a classic valve, but it costs 4x as much. You can also get a ULE main body, a carbon fiber barrel, etc. The sky is the limit.

      As for upgrades, again, that depends on how/where you play and what kind of play style you have. If you're just playing woodsball with some friends, I see no need to change much at all. I wouldn't even get a Level 10 kit. A force-feeding loader (like a nice, used Halo) can be had for less money (around $40-$50), and it will feed faster than you can shoot, so that will eliminate a lot of breaks right there. And a Halo is easier to use than a Level 10.

      Comment

      • Spider-TW
        U R techno-literate!

        • Oct 2006
        • 3554

        #4
        Check the weight of your hpa tank against the advertised weight of a new ninja super light tank. Those are also smaller, so you could shrink your drop and ASA. The double bench mark frame is thick and heavy. Luke's customs frames are lighter, as well as the original single frame. You need to think about which parts you want to keep.
        Last edited by Spider-TW; 01-02-2017, 02:00 PM.

        Comment

        • Laku
          Registered User

          • Nov 2012
          • 940

          #5
          Originally posted by blackdeath1k View Post
          http://www.automags.org/forums/forum...?51-The-Armory

          Link should get you to the armory sub forum. It is where all the mag pictures tend to get posted.
          In addition to that, there's MOTM winners thread. http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...-*-New-Version

          Comment

          • athomas
            Of course it works-its AGD
            • Jan 2002
            • 8039

            #6
            I have one of those original Kapp drops.

            The Halo is a great hopper that will force feed and prevent chops. However, even that one has issues when you run the hopper out of paint in the heat of a battle. That is when you need the level 10 to prevent a chop. I would recommend a level 10 bolt on all mags that don't have eyes. If the valve has a phase 2 venturi bolt, then I would invest in the level 10 upgrade for sure, no matter what..

            If you want to shave weight, put a dovetail directly onto the bottom of your frame. You can still use the Kapp on-off, but it will be a lot lighter. You don't give up that much tightness in your setup. Its just different and will actually allow you to shoot from a more stable platform. Get rid of the sight rail. It adds a lot of weight without much function. There are lighter trigger frames, but if you like yours its ok, because you can shim the trigger for a more crisp feel. The rest won't save much weight unless you get a full ULE body and cocker barrel. The phase 2 valve should be fine. You can change the on-off, but if its working fine it doesn't need to be upgraded.
            Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

            Comment

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