Hey guys, I'd like to make my RT bounce. Can someone advise how to shim my shp reg for this?
Thanks!
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Thanks!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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Dont shim your reg. It's not needed. Slowly andsurely, shorten the on/off pin (use a set of digital calipers). My 800psi regs like bout .720 but find a good length for your needs. -
An SHP with no shims should be around 950 already, right? That is a fair bounce rate once it gets going. I found my RT to be a little more difficult to bounce, like a brand new x-valve. I think a lot of the old RTs didn't get a lot of play time (mine was an early rail leaker), and they haven't been worn in well. They are also finicky about the position (number of turns) of the banjo bolt, probably due to the coarser threads. Mark the head with a marker or nail polish to keep track of it, at least to the quarter turn. There's 0.040" or so per turn there and you're talking about shaving 0.030".
Before you shorten the on/off pin, make sure the three pivot points in the trigger and sear linkage move well (trigger pin, sear pin, clevis pin). Polish and lube where needed. Also, polish off the stamping marks on the surface of the sear where the on/off pin rides, so that it is nice and smooth. That doesn't take much off that surface, but it can count for about 0.003-0.005". Polish the pin tip as well. I try to play or shoot at least two or three HPA bottles through a valve that isn't kicking already at 950, to make sure the o-rings are set in and moving as best they can.
If it hasn't started kicking after that, start shaving and testing. Sometimes the testing wears it in. I haven't had to shave an RT valve pin yet. I have shaved them for classic valves for flow reasons and have no problem with the practice, but my best bouncer still has a 0.750 pin. When you get everything very well worn in, you can bounce a ULT (not in a classic RT), which is actually shorter but also very light on the kick.
On your original question though, I think there is a ninja video on their website on changing shims (better than my typing and memory). Mine only came with what was in it for 1100 (one red and one plain?). That was a bit much, and I took out the shims pretty quickly.Comment
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An shp without any shims is roughly 850 not 950.Comment
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Double triggers help too. You can get a single trigger to bounce, but it's harder to lean the sweet spot.Comment
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Mine is a few years old, from the AGD label run. It is 950 w/o shims, but I know they made some changes. Which vintage are you thinking of? I still have a superlight bottle on my list; if an SHP goes down to 850 now, that would be nice. I doubt it would save me a bottle though. :)Comment
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That thread has all the info based off LP gauge readings. I actually think the paperwork said 950-1200 but based off gauge readings no shims is roughly 850 psi. The regs I was using at the time of that post were less than a year old. I don't know how old the regs were that others used.
A shp from the factory comes at its max recommended output. Removing the shims will lower the pressure. Unless you bought a reg used that has already had the shims removed.
As far as major reactivity with a classic rt. Mine is bone stock original other than the trigger frame and cut down power feed. It was almost uncontrollable with a 1200psi input from my old nitroduck megareg setup. 1000-1100 was functional. Currently its fed with 1 shim on a shp which gives right at a 950 output pressure. Very controllable. The on off pin in my marker currently is and has always been the one 0.744 pin that's been in it since the 90s.Comment
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I forgot that one was stocked a little short in the first place. I've been running a replacement 0.750 in that one and it is a bit tight.
i think the ninja shims are repeatable, but not exact to start with. I've gauged mine on a few different setups; defintely a V1 as well.Comment
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One other thing about RTs, try to set the banjo bolt so that the ports line up with the rail ports (perpendicular to the rail). It helps push the recharge rate and is another reason to mark the head of the banjo bolt.Comment
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Thanks for all the help here guys. I admit, I'm a bit reluctant to mod the RT - the SHPs are available new. Is there some reason shortening the on/off pin is a better option?
I'm inclined to go the blackdeath1k route - one extra shim in the SHP to get 950psi from the reg and take it from there. @blackdeath1k - where can I snag one of these? And is this job easy enough to do at home with limited tooling?
Thanks! And fwiw, already have a double trigger. I'm pretty excited about rocking the RT next time I'm at the field!Comment
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Shortening the pin means you do not have to have a dedicated tank for that gun. If you shoot multiple guns, you can use 1 tank for all versus 1 tank for the RT and 1 tank for anything else.
You can also tailor the RT effect for your needs. A SHP tank will give you the effect but at 1 rate (the "stock" rate of the SHP reg to the gun). But by shortening the pin, you can have it at a little or a lot or somewhere in the middle. You are modding it to suit your needs.Comment
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And if you want to, you can buy on off pins in different sizes from tuna.Comment
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I did nothing fancy. I bought a new shp v2 reg. Put it on my old Carlton bottle. I removed 2 of the 3 shims to drop the output Down to 950 and called it a day. The shp regs from the factory come set in there max intended output. You have to remove the shims to lower the output.
And I would have to agree that I'm not a fan of the sloppy triggers on benchmark frames.Comment
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