X Valve Trigger problem.

[athomas]

Is the bolt rubbing anywhere in the body? You can tell if there are wear marks where the bolt goes through the hole in the body. Are you using the correct screw to install the grip frame? If it is too long, it will prevent the body from being held tight against the rail. Make sure the pim on the bottom of the body isn't bottoming out in the rail. That will cause the same issue. Make sure the field strip screw isn't too long as well. Same issue.

[Fancyfingers]

I tried several different carriers with the same O ring, then grabbed a different O ring a repeated the process a couple times and always ended on the same result.

[athomas]

Make sure you use the same oring when you change carriers. It is the oring you are adjusting the tension on, using the different carriers. It is rare that you are using carrier size 0. Its usually 1.0 or 1.5 that most are using. I have seen a few smaller, but it is more rare. Maybe your orings are a bit more loose on the inside diameter.

[Fancyfingers]

I was told this is a brand new X Valve, so it may just need some breaking in?

Tuna, I'll try the wrench tomorrow, and get back to you.

Luke, No I don't have any trigger stops.

I originally thought I was just short stroking it but it only happens after a bust of RT fire, if I finish the trigger press it stops firing completely, the trigger still pushes the on/off, but nothing happens.

I have played with carriers and O Rings but I only get leaks, I currently have the blank carrier, no dots or lines. That's the only one that doesn't leak at some point.

I've tried tight fitting O rings and loose ones on the on/off piston, no change in function, the loose ones RT faster. (forgive my terminology)

I've smoothed out the seer ramp and the rim on the bolt to hopefully let it retract easier, there was little change. (2000 grit sand paper lightly by hand)

I'll be taking another crack at it tomorrow, wish me luck.

[Spider-TW]

Premature sear and bolt wear will occur with trigger stops.

I can see this on pre-travel adjustment, but how is it an issue on post travel, as long as the sear clears the bolt? The on/off pin should be closed before that point anyway. Pre-travel tends to defeat the "credit card gap behind the trigger" trigger rod setup.

I suppose you can set them up to cause damage, or not, but it's not the stop that kills bolts, it's the person using them.

Those old Dye two fingers can use a big pre-travel screw on them. They just flop around.

***

doh! stupid page 2!

[luke]

This is why trigger stops are not recommended in an automag. All mags require a full pull and full release to operate correctly. Premature sear and bolt wear will occur with trigger stops.

Agreed (If done improperly). I believe TK stated many years ago that trigger stops in and of themselves weren't the problem as much as people getting the adjustments wrong. (Which reflects poorly on the product and is totally understandable)

[Tunaman]

If it only happens once in awhile it could be your short stroking the trigger or if you tune you trigger stops right on the "firing and reset" edge you may on occasion a shot that doesn't reset the bolt.

This is why trigger stops are not recommended in an automag. All mags require a full pull and full release to operate correctly. Premature sear and bolt wear will occur with trigger stops.

[luke]

If it only happens once in awhile it could be your short stroking the trigger or if you tune your trigger stops right on the "firing and reset" edge you may on occasion get a shot that doesn't reset the bolt.

[Spider-TW]

Which axis is the level ten spacer adjusting ?

They compress the o ring vertically to make it tighter or more loose?

Or does it adjust horizontal distance from some point of reference like the L7 power tube spacer kit?

It compresses the o-ring, making it tighter or looser.

The level 10 uses a "carrier" to hold the o-ring and adjust the tension of the seal, as Laku said. The level 10 "shims" are used (if at all) to adjust the distance to the o-ring.

While level 7 "spacers" occupy the same area as the level 10 "carriers", the carrier's job is as a set-length spacer with a set inside diameter. Traditionally, you use a level 7 spacer kit to adjust the distance to the o-ring on a level 7, but you can use a level 10 shim (0.010") or a ULT shim (0.005") on top of a short spacer to increase that distance.

[Laku]

Which axis is the level ten spacer adjusting ?

They compress the o ring vertically to make it tighter or more loose?

Or does it adjust horizontal distance from some point of reference like the L7 power tube spacer kit?

It compresses the o-ring, making it tighter or looser.

[luke]

Fancyfingers, are you running trigger stops?

[tucson.az.jbreen]

Which axis is the level ten spacer adjusting ?

They compress the o ring vertically to make it tighter or more loose?

Or does it adjust horizontal distance from some point of reference like the L7 power tube spacer kit?

[athomas]

Mondoatx, I have tried a couple different springs, the looser fitting ones RT better, but I believe my problem stems from the bolt not returning all the way. I have noticed that when she goes dead, I can manually push the bolt all the way to the rear, the sear resets and she shoots again. The longer spring reduces the frequency of the bolt stopping, except it drags too much and causes large inconsistencies in velocity and reactivity.

If the field screw tightening doesn't help straighten the valve alignment and free up the bolt, then your problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. That would sometimes be made to work by going to a lighter spring such as what worked for Mondoatx. It doesn't fix the problem though, only masks it. The bolt needs to move freely in and out of the carrier oring without any friction. If the tension on the carrier oring is higher than the force exerted on the bolt stem, then the higher friction can prevent the bolt from firing.
.

[tucson.az.jbreen]

Ok, I see that. Excellent visuals, thank you for taking the time to post all of this.

[Tunaman]

Mondoatx, I have tried a couple different springs, the looser fitting ones RT better, but I believe my problem stems from the bolt not returning all the way. I have noticed that when she goes dead, I can manually push the bolt all the way to the rear, the sear resets and she shoots again. The longer spring reduces the frequency of the bolt stopping, except it drags too much and causes large inconsistencies in velocity and reactivity.

Try tightening the rear field strip screw with a wrench...